What span of a truss of the "framework" type can you have on a workshop if you want an apartment on the attic level? I don't want any load-bearing interior walls or glulam beams taking up space in the workshop under the apartment.
I would like to build the workshop 7.3x12m.
Would this truss work without the support of load-bearing interior walls?
http://www.lundqvisttakstolar.se/sites/default/files/7245-38.pdf
I would like to build the workshop 7.3x12m.
Would this truss work without the support of load-bearing interior walls?
http://www.lundqvisttakstolar.se/sites/default/files/7245-38.pdf
They don't respond to emails. Just wondering if anyone knows if it's even possible.
If you plan to have living space above and only use construction-classed studs (i.e. max 45x220 C30), you should be able to manage a span of about 5 meters if you have knee walls without load like the sketch in your PDF.
A span of 4-4.5 meters should not be a problem at all.
For spans over 5 meters, you need to start considering having a central wall on the floor below, and then it suddenly becomes quite easy to reach an 8-meter span.
A span of 4-4.5 meters should not be a problem at all.
For spans over 5 meters, you need to start considering having a central wall on the floor below, and then it suddenly becomes quite easy to reach an 8-meter span.
Having heart wall in a workshop feels like washing dishes in the toilet bowl. Feels like I'll still have to tinker with glued laminated timber beams and posts in the workshop to succeed with an upper floor. 
Options for achieving more span include:
- Cast and well-reinforced concrete slab.
- Constructing the intermediate floor using strong glulam beams, say somewhere around 90x405 90x450, should be able to handle spans of around 7 meters. NOTE: This is a rough estimation. It naturally needs to be calculated properly. It would be great if you could manage with dimensions 66x315, but I doubt it.
Keep in mind that there must be two separate fire cells, so the self-weight of the slab will also be higher due to fire-protective gypsum, etc.
Apart from glulam, other options include Kerto-beams and lightweight beams (masonite beams), but there might not be a significant difference in dimension compared to glulam. However, it should still be checked in terms of dimension and price, to choose the best option.
Then there's possibly a somewhat esoteric solution: a "center wall" on the upper floor instead. That is, the intermediate floor is supported in the middle by a brace from the roof truss's ridge. I assume that you dimension and manufacture the roof trusses with this vertical bearing brace between the ridge and the bottom chord directly. If you can manage a floor plan on the upper floor with such a wall, it may be worth investigating.
- Cast and well-reinforced concrete slab.
- Constructing the intermediate floor using strong glulam beams, say somewhere around 90x405 90x450, should be able to handle spans of around 7 meters. NOTE: This is a rough estimation. It naturally needs to be calculated properly. It would be great if you could manage with dimensions 66x315, but I doubt it.
Keep in mind that there must be two separate fire cells, so the self-weight of the slab will also be higher due to fire-protective gypsum, etc.
Apart from glulam, other options include Kerto-beams and lightweight beams (masonite beams), but there might not be a significant difference in dimension compared to glulam. However, it should still be checked in terms of dimension and price, to choose the best option.
Then there's possibly a somewhat esoteric solution: a "center wall" on the upper floor instead. That is, the intermediate floor is supported in the middle by a brace from the roof truss's ridge. I assume that you dimension and manufacture the roof trusses with this vertical bearing brace between the ridge and the bottom chord directly. If you can manage a floor plan on the upper floor with such a wall, it may be worth investigating.
I built 7.2x13. Although not framework but only cc120. Snow zone 1.5 There is a somewhat old book called "takstolsboken" which comes with an older model Windows program where you can calculate roof trusses yourself. I did it but didn't quite trust myself since I don't work with it. So I hired an engineer, but he came up with exactly the same truss as I did, although he used 2-meter joint wood whereas I spent an extra minute and skipped the joint.
Know-It-All
· Västra Götaland
· 12 294 posts
Steel beam is a great invention otherwise! (the green beam on the sketch.)
(the green beam on the sketch.)
Know-It-All
· Västra Götaland
· 12 294 posts
It is to achieve less deflection in the floor structure that you "need" the hjärtvägg.
Member
· Västerbottens län
· 18 047 posts
I have a workshop in an old barn and have a construction somewhat like the TS wants it. Raised the intermediate floor and installed laminated beams 63x495 mm with a span of 8 meters, calculated for 270 kg/m2, which is a middle ground between industrial and residential. CC 1100 (the wall's studs were spaced that way) On top of the floor, there are supports for the rafter, and there's a collar tie quite high up.
Could go as slender as 63 mm since the roof and floor keep the beams in order (risk of them tipping over).
I also received a proposal for thicker but lower laminated beams, but it was more expensive.
Protte
Could go as slender as 63 mm since the roof and floor keep the beams in order (risk of them tipping over).
I also received a proposal for thicker but lower laminated beams, but it was more expensive.
Protte