Hello and Good day!
Currently removing all the tretex upstairs in favor of drywall. I'm in the process of pulling out all the staples from the tretex, 13,726 out of 47,819 have been removed. But! Do I need to remove the clips that are between the raw boards? I assume they serve a function for structural integrity. The drywall should presumably serve the same role once it's in place. How sensitive is it to have unevenness when drywalling? I recall it's quite important? Never done drywalling myself before...
Is it enough to just hammer them as flat as possible, or should they be pulled out? The boards themselves aren't super even either.
Currently removing all the tretex upstairs in favor of drywall. I'm in the process of pulling out all the staples from the tretex, 13,726 out of 47,819 have been removed. But! Do I need to remove the clips that are between the raw boards? I assume they serve a function for structural integrity. The drywall should presumably serve the same role once it's in place. How sensitive is it to have unevenness when drywalling? I recall it's quite important? Never done drywalling myself before...
Is it enough to just hammer them as flat as possible, or should they be pulled out? The boards themselves aren't super even either.
Best answer
Depends on how thorough you want to be and what result you want 
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When I plastered a similar ceiling (uneven raw wood), I skipped leveling down and screwed the plasterboard directly onto the plank. The ceiling was not perfectly horizontal, but I didn't have the energy to level it to make it flat. The plasterboard is a bit forgiving, so it worked out better than expected. There were especially two spots in the corners where there was a significant difference between two planks, and if you look closely, you can see it's not 100% flat. However, it's like everything else: I, who did it, see the "mistakes," others don't notice it
Regarding the clips, I would probably leave them, as I don't think they'll affect whether it's flat or not.
. When I plastered a similar ceiling (uneven raw wood), I skipped leveling down and screwed the plasterboard directly onto the plank. The ceiling was not perfectly horizontal, but I didn't have the energy to level it to make it flat. The plasterboard is a bit forgiving, so it worked out better than expected. There were especially two spots in the corners where there was a significant difference between two planks, and if you look closely, you can see it's not 100% flat. However, it's like everything else: I, who did it, see the "mistakes," others don't notice it
Regarding the clips, I would probably leave them, as I don't think they'll affect whether it's flat or not.
Then I'll go for it! Moved into the house last Monday... unrenovated since the 70s! Too many places that need time to get 100%. 90% is good enough, thanks for the answer!C claym said:Depends on how meticulous you want to be and what result you want
When I plastered similar ceilings (raw wood that was uneven), I skipped the battens and screwed the plasterboard directly onto the wood. The ceiling was absolutely not level, but I didn't have the energy to install battens to make it flat. The plasterboard is a bit forgiving, so it worked better than expected. There were mainly 2 spots in the corners where there was quite a difference between 2 planks, and sure, if you look closely, you can see that it's not 100% flat. But it's like everything: I, who did it, see the "errors," others don't notice it
Regarding the clips, I would probably leave them, don't think they cause any problems regarding flatness or not
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Maybe place splice plate behind and bind the corner joints to avoid cracks.
Maybe place splice plate behind and bind the corner joints to avoid cracks.
Install pre-painted wood paneling in the ceiling, bang bang with a nail gun, done! Drywall: Stiff neck, drywall lung due to heavy, cumbersome, and sanding dust throughout the house. Then you'll never get a nice ceiling unless you're a skilled painter who can drywall