How do I rip the board lengthwise?

[TheGame]

One thing to keep in mind when sawing along with the side fence is that it becomes easier if the saw is not set to maximum saw depth but just enough to go through the material.

 

[Mjärn]

One thing to keep in mind when sawing along with the side fence is that it becomes easier if you don't have the saw set to max cutting depth but just enough to go through the material.

I haven't figured out how to adjust the cutting depth yet. Will check.

 

[Mellanbarn]

If it's crowded for clamps, I usually stop and move the clamp behind the saw. Maybe not good enough for fine carpentry, but good enough for pressure-treated.

 

[AndersS]

If it's cramped for clamps, I usually stop and move the clamp to behind the saw. Maybe not suitable for fine carpentry, but good enough for pressure-treated wood.

Works perfectly, if you are "fine woodworking" you'll plane the saw surface anyway.

 

[MathiasS]

What you are trying to do is something I consistently avoid doing with the guide rail. I only use the guide rail when I have a flat surface for the entire rail; otherwise, there's a risk of problems, both that it becomes skewed and that the rail wobbles, risking the saw pinching the material.

As already suggested, use the side fence; it works excellently for everything that isn't fine carpentry.

 

[joakim_j]

I usually clamp/screw a board on top of the one I am going to rip, as a side fence. I find it quite easy to lose direction with the small fence that comes with the saw.

 

[hyggabus]

I think we're talking past the thread creator here. From the picture in the first post, I infer that the original poster has bought a Dewalt plunge saw with a matching track. I don't know the details about these, but the plunge saws I've seen don't have a parallel guide. There's also no "slot" for mounting a parallel guide. Tracks for plunge saws have a groove on the underside where you insert special clamps (see https://www.byggahus.se/forum/threads/hur-klyver-jag-braedan-pa-laengden.496778/post-5360991) which are not in the way of the saw as they are entirely underneath it. Often, the track doesn't need to be clamped; it's enough to lay it on what needs to be cut since the only contact between the cut piece and the saw itself is the blade—the saw slides on the track and not on the wood piece. All plunge saws have as a basic function the ability to set the cutting depth quite accurately. Adjust the depth so that it cuts through with a few millimeters to spare.

 

[Mjärn]

What you're trying to do is something I consistently avoid doing with the track. I only use the track when I have a flat surface for the entire track, otherwise there's a risk of problems, both with it becoming crooked and the track tilting and then there's a risk of the saw binding in the material.

As already suggested, use the side guide, it works great for anything that's not fine woodworking.

Don't think I included anything. Will check

 

[MathiasS]

I don't think I included anything. I'll check.

If you don't have one and it's not possible to buy an add-on, just get a cheap circular saw, anything will work for ripping unless you have fine woodworking requirements for precision.

I don't use my plunge saw for these jobs, I have a separate circular saw for this.

 

[cpalm]

I often saw boards with the guide rail. It is necessary to block underneath in an appropriate way with pieces of wood of the same dimension. If necessary, use double-sided tape if it is smaller pieces that need to be sawn (beware of the risk of kickback).

Also, keep in mind that it is not possible to rip with a fine-toothed saw blade.

 

[AndersS]

A board piece as short as in the photo I've sometimes split with a Japanese saw, but few people probably do. However, time-wise, if the power tool isn't set up, the Japanese saw is faster.

 

[FredrikR]

What you're trying to do is something I consistently avoid doing with the guide rail. I only use the guide rail when I have a flat surface for the entire rail, otherwise there's a risk of problems, both that it becomes crooked and that the rail tips over, which then risks the saw pinching in the material.

As already suggested, use the side fence, it works excellently for everything that is not fine woodworking.

The guide rail is best suited for sheet material. 👌
On flat and stable surfaces.

 

[raveper]

Rarely ends up straight then😄

Yes. Always.

 

[z_bumbi]

How do you fasten it? There is nothing to fasten with except the clamp

The clamp works, right? It helps if you have some scrap pieces to place parts of the track on, but clamp the board under the track and saw along the track's edge. Most circular saws cut 2-3 cm from the edge, so place the track half a board plus the distance you measure on the saw. Do some tests on another piece of board first.

 

[MathiasS]

The clamp works, right? It helps if you have some scrap pieces to place parts of the track on, but clamp the board under the track and saw along the edge of the track. Most circular saws cut 2-3 cm from the edge, so place the track half the board plus that distance which you measure on the saw. Do a few tests on another piece of board first.

It's almost impossible to get the track clamped without it tilting a bit if you don't have a flat surface under the entire track.