boschkenta boschkenta said:
It is enough that you have a longer board of the same thickness under the other side of the rail (parallel to the one you are going to saw) and saw carefully. Let the machine do the job and don't push it, but apply a little pressure on the rail with your other hand, and it should be fine. I have split so much in this way, without clamps, for many years.
Ok thanks! I'll try this! But to avoid the board resting on the trestles from breaking, you can adjust the saw blade depth, right?
 
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Aklejan
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Ossian K Olsson
M Förstagångsköparen said:
I've bought a circular saw with a guide rail. I've encountered a problem right away that surely has a good solution, but I haven't figured it out yet. I hope you can help me!

To the far right, there's a pressure-treated board (22×95). Let's say I want to rip it lengthwise. How on earth do I place the guide rail then? Whatever I do, the clamp gets in the way, or it becomes completely unstable. Ripping a sheet is no problem, because you just place it between two sawhorses and rip. But how do you rip this board on the right in the most efficient way?
Sometimes it can be easiest to rip the board first and then cut it to length! Because then you can screw the board onto the sawhorses so it lies stable, then rip (you don't even have to rip the whole thing, you can start with the saw at one end) and finally cut off the screw holes to get the board to the right length.
 
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Workingclasshero
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A AndersS said:
You use a circular saw with a parallel/side fence.
I don't quite understand this "parallel/side fence" thing. Can you explain a bit more what it is? I google it and see a picture but don't really understand how it's used.
 
Fasten the rail and let the saw run on the outside?
 
Ossian K Olsson Ossian K Olsson said:
Sometimes it can be easiest to split the board first and then cut it to length! Because then you can screw the board to the saw horses so it stays stable, then split (you don't even have to split the whole thing, you can go in with the saw on one end) and finally cut off the screw holes to get the board to the right length.
But I needed two boards that looked nice after cutting. So no screw holes 😄
 
Z z_bumbi said:
Fasten the rail and let the saw run on the outside?
How do you fasten it? There is nothing to fasten with except the clamp
 
Don't have a better picture, but you can see it here.
A circular saw placed on a wooden plank outdoors with a clamp attached.
 
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FredrikR
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M Förstagångsköparen said:
This thing with "parallel/fence" I don't quite understand. Can you explain a bit more what it is? I google it and get a picture but don't really get how to use it.
Like this (although this fence is huge, the ones that usually come with are much smaller). The fence is the part that runs along the outside of the board/plank and ensures that the saw doesn't veer inward: Kreg%20KMA2685-INT%20Parallellanslag.jpg
 
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A AndersS said:
Don't have a better picture, but you can see it here.
[image]
Hmm.. Can't really see the usage in that picture. I'm a complete beginner with all this stuff, so I apologize haha. But you don't need to explain further. I'll just Google it! Thanks for the engagement!
 
zarkov zarkov said:
Like this (although this guide is enormous, the ones that usually come with it are much smaller). The guide is the part that runs along the outside of the disc/board and ensures the saw doesn't veer inward:
[bild]
Oh wow! I didn't get one of those. It would have been good! However, I can't operate it with one hand as there is some safety feature that requires me to have both hands on the machine.
 
Ossian K Olsson
M Förstagångsköparen said:
But I needed two boards that looked nice after cutting. So no screw holes 😄
What I mean is to cut a longer board first, then cut it into your two shorter pieces at the right length where the screw holes are cut off! Diagram showing a board with lines indicating where to cut it into shorter pieces, removing screw holes.
 
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Plutus
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Be aware that it can pinch and the saw can kick back, so no hand behind the saw, then it may be the end of woodworking forever.

Take the piece and screw the part to be removed at the front and back edges so the piece stays still, possibly prop up the rail on the other side so the rail sits well.
Saw
 
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Mjärn
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Ossian K Olsson Ossian K Olsson said:
What I mean is to cut a longer board first, then cut it into your two shorter pieces at the right length where the screw holes are cut off![image]
Oh, I see! Smart! I will keep that in mind! Very good tip there. Thanks!
 
M Förstagångsköparen said:
Oh wow! I didn't get one of those. That would have been good! However, I can't operate it with one hand due to a safety feature requiring both hands on the machine.
What usually comes with it is much smaller, in this picture it is black:
70102808_ba1.jpg
But it's also possible that they don't send one with a saw that fits the track since the track can mostly be used.
 
I split like this a few weeks ago. I think it's good to have an extra rule/board with the same height so the saw lies more stable.
 
  • Circular saw on wooden board supported by an additional board for stability, with tools and a car in the background.
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