Hello all builders.
I have torn down all the old masonite from the walls in a room that we are renovating. The actual wall behind is rough tongue-and-groove paneling that I want to keep because it's perfect for attaching things to the wall. Unfortunately, it's not completely even. The house is from 1941, so the wall has probably moved over the years. I plan to put up 12mm particle board on top, but how can I easily make the wall even so the particle board doesn't sag? It's not very uneven and I don't want to remove the paneling to get to the studs. Can you use filler or put some material behind the particle board, or do you have any tips? Best regards
I have torn down all the old masonite from the walls in a room that we are renovating. The actual wall behind is rough tongue-and-groove paneling that I want to keep because it's perfect for attaching things to the wall. Unfortunately, it's not completely even. The house is from 1941, so the wall has probably moved over the years. I plan to put up 12mm particle board on top, but how can I easily make the wall even so the particle board doesn't sag? It's not very uneven and I don't want to remove the paneling to get to the studs. Can you use filler or put some material behind the particle board, or do you have any tips? Best regards
I don't want to use plaster at all. I don't think it serves any purpose. It's not very uneven but enough that I don't want to attach the boards directly to the wall. I think I'll frame the wall and that way it will be easier with the electrical wiring too.. and then I'll attach the chipboard to the studs. What do you think about that?
Yes, I think so too, but I was outvoted by my partner. Then I want more power outlets and preferably have them recessed. I know many who have painted and wallpapered directly on chipboard and I have heard that you should use plasterboard because it's easier to work with and fireproof... But is there any direct reason?
More sound-insulated...kebabpizza said:
If you want more electricity in the wall and have to stud up, you lose all the benefits of having tongue and groove behind it! Then you can't reach the tongue and groove with screws, for example?
Can you really wallpaper on chipboard?:-/ doesn't it become like putting wallpaper on OSB? That it comes off after a couple of years!?
I know several people who have applied wallpaper directly to chipboard, and it seems to have worked well. The main thing is to roll both the wallpaper and the chipboard with wallpaper paste. Sure, I can put drywall over the chipboard, but if it's unnecessary, as I said, it feels... unnecessary 
Yes, you're right that the purpose is somewhat lost with the panel behind if you're bracing, but if I need to attach something heavy, I can use long screws and still reach into the panel. Also, it's a lot of work to remove the panel.
Yes, you're right that the purpose is somewhat lost with the panel behind if you're bracing, but if I need to attach something heavy, I can use long screws and still reach into the panel. Also, it's a lot of work to remove the panel.
I know a couple who have wallpapered on chipboard and it looks quite dull at the seams. The wallpapers have pulled back, creating creases and in some cases cracks in almost every seam. If you use gypsum, it is significantly easier to achieve a good result that stays nice for a long time.
If it's for any building preservation reasons that you want to avoid gypsum, you should also avoid chipboard and instead put up treetex. It's nowhere near as good as gypsum but at least better than chipboard and above all, a bit more "authentic."
If the walls sway back and forth, you can start from the part of the wall that sticks out the most and lay about 5cm wide strips of masonite from floor to ceiling with 60cm spacing so that the strips line up with the protruding part of the wall. Then you have more or less created your own stud wall with cc60. Gypsum can "float in the air" between these studs, and when you want to hang something on the walls, you just need to use screws long enough to reach through the void and into the sheathing.
If it's for any building preservation reasons that you want to avoid gypsum, you should also avoid chipboard and instead put up treetex. It's nowhere near as good as gypsum but at least better than chipboard and above all, a bit more "authentic."
If the walls sway back and forth, you can start from the part of the wall that sticks out the most and lay about 5cm wide strips of masonite from floor to ceiling with 60cm spacing so that the strips line up with the protruding part of the wall. Then you have more or less created your own stud wall with cc60. Gypsum can "float in the air" between these studs, and when you want to hang something on the walls, you just need to use screws long enough to reach through the void and into the sheathing.
I have used Biltema's wooden sticks to level out a wall in places where the masonite strips were too thick. Works well
http://biltema.se/sv/Fritid/Tradgard/Grill/Tillbehor/Trastickor-26379/
http://biltema.se/sv/Fritid/Tradgard/Grill/Tillbehor/Trastickor-26379/
Thanks for the great tips!!! Now I just have to decide what is best.