Hello. I am in the process of tearing down my old mosaic in the kitchen, and much of the plaster on the existing wall has disappeared as a result. In some places, it's about a centimeter, and I can also see that behind this is a brick wall (the wall to the neighbor). My new tiles won't go as high as the old ones, so I will need to repair the wall in some places. I won't be able to put up plasterboards as the new kitchen is quite exact, so I can't build it out, but I heard about "husfix," which I understood is a cement-based filler. Could it work to fix the holes in the wall? Does it also work on brick?
When I tore down the old kitchen, I also see that there are quite a few cracks in the concrete (I have a wall in lightweight concrete/aerated concrete). Can these also be filled, or do I need to do something more demanding to be able to install a kitchen on that wall?
Best regards, Johanna
When I tore down the old kitchen, I also see that there are quite a few cracks in the concrete (I have a wall in lightweight concrete/aerated concrete). Can these also be filled, or do I need to do something more demanding to be able to install a kitchen on that wall?
Best regards, Johanna
Attaching a kitchen to a lightweight concrete wall is no fun task, especially if it is a bit older and has cracks. It is very difficult to achieve a durable fastening.
there is primarily a crack that extends diagonally across almost the entire wall (1.40 wide). then there is another one that appears to go from the seam of the concrete blocks and a few dm up. shouldn't it work if I don't drill where the cracks are and then use plugs?
Have you ever mounted anything on a lightweight concrete wall before? It's very difficult to get a good grip as the material crumbles. I probably wouldn't have dared to hang a kitchen cabinet on such a wall without through bolts.
Use plaster to repair the wall. Easy to use
It's perfectly possible to attach cabinets to a lightweight concrete wall if you have experience. It's hard to say exactly what you should use without having seen the wall or drilled into it. There are good plugs, chemical anchors, etc., but if you have no experience attaching things to poor walls, you should get help. Similarly, it can be difficult for a beginner to get the holes exactly where you've marked, especially if you hit a joint between mortar and stone...
It's perfectly possible to attach cabinets to a lightweight concrete wall if you have experience. It's hard to say exactly what you should use without having seen the wall or drilled into it. There are good plugs, chemical anchors, etc., but if you have no experience attaching things to poor walls, you should get help. Similarly, it can be difficult for a beginner to get the holes exactly where you've marked, especially if you hit a joint between mortar and stone...
The people at Byggmax recommended husfix since it's easier to sand down. I hope it works, but I guess I'll find out 😊. I've heard just like you that it's possible to screw wall cabinets into lightweight concrete as long as you have a proper plug, and there are ones specifically tailored for lightweight concrete, so I'm thinking you should be able to hang things up. I'm admittedly a beginner, but I've done well so far and have a few friends who are willing to help out. The important thing is to drill straight and not make the hole too large and have a proper plug that can handle the weight of a wall cabinet? I also read somewhere that you could drill a small hole and then push in the plug so the wall doesn't crumble too much. Thanks for the response!
HSP said:Use gypsum plaster to repair the wall with. Easy to use.
It works perfectly to fix cabinets on lightweight concrete walls at least if you have experience.
It's difficult to say exactly what you should use without seeing the wall or test drilling in that wall.
There are good plugs, chemical anchors, etc., but if you don't have experience attaching things to poor walls, then you should get help.
Likewise, it can be difficult for a beginner to get the holes exactly where you marked them, especially if you end up at a joint between mortar and stone...
Yes, it usually works well to drill the hole slightly smaller than the plug, e.g., 12mm plug, 10mm hole. The hole usually becomes a bit larger than the drill bit in "loose" materials. Try to estimate the thickness of the wall and use the longest plug and screw possible (without going through the wall). It's important to use screws that fit the plug and that the screw reaches through the plug as it should, don't forget to account for the thickness of what is being mounted when determining the screw's length. Do not use hammer drill mode when drilling in aerated concrete. Drill deep enough so that the screw doesn't reach the bottom of the hole when it's screwed in. It usually works well to drill with a regular High-Speed Steel drill bit (HSS). The drill bit becomes dull after a few holes, but it centers well. Buy inexpensive drill bits at places like biltema.
okay, thanks a lot! I have made that mistake before (forgetting to add the thickness of what's being screwed up), but I realized it in time, so it was no problem, and I probably won't make the same mistake again.
Best regards, Johanna
Best regards, Johanna
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