Hello builders. I'm renovating the living room, tretex on every wall. Soft and uneven as heck. Initially thought of putting renovation plasterboard on everything but it feels like cheating, so I started tearing the stuff off. Almost the whole house is tretex. Behind the tretex, there's some kind of rough-hewn wood.
The tretex measured 13mm, so to replace this, 13mm plasterboards should fit perfectly, right? Is there anything negative about plasterboard, besides that it can't hold heavy items? I mean, there's wood behind, so I should be able to mount the TV with just wood screws?
I've only done light renovations before, so I felt I needed some more knowledge...
There's only one(!) power outlet in the room, so I should probably route out and install two more. Does the electrician do the routing, or is it something one can do themselves?
Plaster directly on, less work for you, I personally putty my tretex then on with renovation wallpaper. It turned out really good but as you say, it is soft.
Sure, there might be less demolition work, but there will be more work with doors and windows. Now I've demolished a part, we'll see how I handle the other walls. But if that's the case, I'll go with renovation plasterboard. Spackling and wallpaper might be relevant in other rooms later on with fabric and such nice things
In one room, we put renovation plasterboard over tretex that was damaged, and it turned out well! In another, similar to yours where some parts were damaged, we cut out and placed "porös board" and then applied "torr remsor" between the joints, followed by a smooth renovation wallpaper and then wallpaper, which also worked well. If you have problems with cracking, as mentioned, "torr remsor" is good.
"The best is to take a thin paper like masking paper (Quickmasker paper) available in paint shops.
1. Cut it to a width of about 5 cm, soak it in a little water so it's thoroughly wet, and place it centered over the joint on the tretex boards. The water is mainly to make it stick to the wall without falling off.
2. Now cut a slightly wider masking paper, about 8-10 cm. Apply wallpaper paste on one side (like a wallpaper strip) and stick it centered over the slightly narrower strip as if you were wallpapering. Let it dry. Done!
You need to do strips 1 and 2 in relatively quick succession. Because when strip no. 1 has dried from the water, it will fall off.
Now you've created a so-called torremsa. Now the tretex boards can move a little under the strips. If you had glued the strip directly on the joint, the tretex would have taken the strip with it, and it would have cracked."
Tear off the treetex and install regular drywall.
There might be an issue with screwing drywall onto treetex as the screws might go through since it's soft behind.
Tretex is easy to tear down, often you can bend down entire boards without them breaking. I have removed it in all rooms except one, where it remains on two walls.
If you should rout in the electricity depends on how the house looks overall. We live in an 1800s house, so when renovating rooms, we have chosen not to rout in the electricity even if it has sometimes been tempting. Instead, we have chosen nailed electricity which is then filled in and painted over so it looks like the cables have been there since the Dacke War.
Hi, mjo started tearing down goes fairly easily. Found some element pipes behind the board, sat very shallow in the wall yeah it can actually look quite nice with exposed electric, so I haven't decided yet, just with nice clips
Yes, it can be quite nice with exposed wiring actually, so I haven't decided yet, just with nice clamps
It takes a special kind of electrician to do neat electrical work. My brother-in-law is an electrician and works with maintenance in a mine, so he thought it was pretty fun to do some fine-tuning for once. It turned out absolutely fantastic when he helped us with the kitchen.
Sure, with the right cable and neat clamps, it will surely be fine! Nice to get rid of the tretex, although it goes under the floor and is firmly stuck there, so I had to buy myself a multitool to saw it off. Maybe not the original floor then, don't you lay the floor first and then the board above the floor?
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