Here's how I envisioned the whole thing:
I think the pictures explain themselves, but the blue-purple is a magnet or Velcro fastener. The reason the support pin became red in the closed position is solely because paintbrush was being silly with me. The rear hinge actually has two alternative placements with different pros and cons. With the upper placement, it's easy to mount but may create a gap at the back if you don't mill a groove. The lower placement provides a gap-free mounting but can be tricky to put in place.
The "drawing" is roughly hewn and out of proportion, and should of course be seen as a conceptual sketch rather than a drawing.
Hello, just a thought, I know how it is in a "normally messy" home .
With boxes with lids on top, there will probably be some "stuff" that ends up on top of the lids according to the principle "look, a flat surface, I can place something there..."
If I understand correctly, the standing posts rest on the crossbeam on the floor, causing issues for pull-out boxes, so can that beam be removed and the posts attached with, for example, angle brackets or screwed at an angle?
If not, a more cumbersome solution, make the door on the front, difficult to pack though, but then you can also use the top of the box...
Micke parkett and ToRy, thank you so much for the very good explanations and pictures. I'll discuss with my partner how we should do it.
Micke, I was wondering more if you could use the hatch opener to avoid having cutouts or handles, but you don't think it can even push up the lid to the extent it folds out.
Jante, there shouldn't be too many things on it. It should be a clutter-free nice surface Possibly a few lanterns and nice pillows that the cats can shed on.
Piano hinge works without hitting anything behind
Now I don't know how to draw
but the point is that you screw it in so that it sits within the board's thickness
with the actual pivot part facing upwards
of course, it should not be placed on top or under the boards
but in between
When the lid is closed, you only see a strip of brass about 3mm at the very back of the lid
interesting with the paint sprayer
what type have you bought? one where you carry the unit on your shoulder?
you can spray with it without getting a lot of overspray around
A completely different solution that my father-in-law built in the cottage was sliding doors in front of the support beams, like one door/two support beams. The panels are wallpapered like the rest of the room, and we arrange furniture against the sliding doors, very practical. We also have separate lighting behind the doors, which makes it much easier when searching through the storage spaces.
Behind the doors, some of the compartments are completely open for storing larger items (child seat, mattresses, etc.). In other compartments, there are built-in shelves for smaller items. In the other room, we have it open like your attic, and the dust bunnies always gather furthest in where it's hardest to reach, a minor cleaning nightmare. I'll ask my father-in-law to build panels there as well.
The support legs in ToRy's proposal have two disadvantages. Firstly, they may be difficult to lower when the box is full of items, and there's a high risk of "kicking the legs out from underneath yourself" when placing items in, resulting in the box falling on your fingers.
An alternative to hold up the lid is a lockable hasp at the front edge of the lid with a loop on the front of the box to lock the lid when it's closed (unnecessary) and a loop on the ceiling to latch it in the open position. (Why am I thinking of Emil and his wood shed while writing this... :-D)
In our case, the room with the sliding doors actually feels more airy and inviting; I think it has to do with the fact that the prong furthest in under the ceiling becomes darker than the rest of the room. The light from both the windows and the ceiling lamp falls better with the walls that the doors create.
Test if you have any boards of suitable size to place them in front of the compartments, and you'll immediately see if it becomes cramped and dull.
The support legs in ToRy's proposal have two drawbacks. They might be difficult to fold down when the box is full of stuff, and there's a significant risk that you might "knock the legs out from under yourself" when trying to load items, ending up with the box over your fingers.
An alternative to hold the lid open is a lockable latch at the front edge of the lid with a loop on the front of the box to lock the lid when it's closed (unnecessary) and a loop in the ceiling to latch it in the open position. (Why do I think of Emil and the woodshed when I write this... :-D)
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I've considered the possibility of knocking the legs out from under oneself. This can be avoided by ensuring that the legs, when in the open position, are angled forward enough to make it nearly impossible to knock them out. Additionally, there's one leg on each side of the lid, so even if one leg is somehow knocked out, you still have the other. These details might be hard to see in my drawing, so thanks for the attention and the chance to clarify!
As for the difficulty of folding the legs in, that could indeed be an issue, especially if long items are placed and slide sideways into the next box... This could be solved by placing the legs in grooves/holes on the side walls of the box instead of on the box's floor...?
Vi vill skicka notiser för ämnen du bevakar och händelser som berör dig.
The rear hinge actually has two alternative placements with different pros and cons. With the upper placement, it's easy to mount but may create a gap at the back if you don't mill a groove. The lower placement provides a gap-free mounting but can be tricky to put in place.
