Thinking of enclosing the corridor between the house and the garage with a door. The door and partition should align with the facade. Total distance between house and garage is exactly 2m.
The problem is that directly under the proposed door/wall, there is currently a curb stone on its edge, so I cannot place a foundation there. On one side of the curb stone is gravel, on the other side asphalt. The door is hung on the garage wall with 95x95, making it completely stable, and the other part of the partition is hung on the facade. However, the post in the middle needs support at the bottom to prevent it from wobbling.
Do you have any suggestions on how to solve this? My spontaneous idea is to simply screw down an earth screw (100% clay) and place another 95x95 inside the "framework." It just doesn't feel very neat. I would prefer not to remove the curb stone for fear of damaging the asphalt.
I have started checking; the post in the middle will resolve itself.
There used to be an entire wall here that was torn down a long time ago. I removed the facade boards and checked. The house is additionally insulated. I'm considering the best way to proceed here.
1) Attach the post directly to the stucco facade (2.5" plank behind about 5cm stucco + brick) and ignore insulation there, or
2) Build up the additional insulation with 45x95 + insulation in sections and attach the post to the wooden facade. However, the 45x95 pieces become a bit flimsy since they are so short.
I'm planning to build over the hallway between the house and the garage with a gate. The gate and partition wall should align with the facade. Total distance house-garage exactly 2m.
The problem is that exactly under the planned gate/wall, there is currently a curb stone on edge, so I can't place a post there. On one side of the curb stone, there is gravel, and on the other side asphalt. The door/gate is hung on the garage wall with 95x95, so it will be completely rigid; the other part of the partition wall is hung on the facade. The post in the middle, however, needs support at the bottom to prevent it from wobbling.
Do you have any suggestions on how to solve this? My initial idea is to simply screw down a ground screw (100% clay) and attach another 95x95 inside the "framework". It just doesn't feel super neat. I'd rather not remove the curb stone for fear of ruining the asphalt.
[image]
Hi,
I will be inspired by that drawing when I make a similar wall between the house and the garage.
How did the result turn out, picture?
And how did you make the door?
/Daniel
Hi,
I will be inspired by that drawing when I make a similar wall between the house and garage.
How did the result turn out, any pictures?
And how did you make the door?
/Daniel
It went well, just need to paint it with one more coat at the back, but saved that until we paint the garage too. I rebuilt the outer wall and screwed the partition wall stud to the facade. It became extremely stable.
The entire frame is 45x95 except the top beam which is double 45x145. The door might be Sweden's most solid. A lapse in thought made me go with a cross instead of a diagonal brace. The first diagonal brace ended up in the wrong direction for some unfathomable reason. Must have turned the frame somehow along the way. But well, it became solid 😄
First, I fastened a stud to the house and the corner of the garage (directly on the underlying framework, here the door's hinges are attached, through with slightly countersunk carriage bolts covered by facade boards at the front). Then I attached the top beam. After that, I cast a base and installed a half post shoe as support for the middle stud, otherwise, it vibrated a bit at the bottom. Turned out well!
The opening at the bottom is for the kitties’ sake 🙂
Tip if you go with double studs and facade boards is to consider the total depth when building the door. It's about 120mm deep that needs to run free when the door opens, so leave a substantial gap between the door's framework (where the handle is) and the "frame," or else they'll hit each other when opening.
It went well, just need to paint another coat on the back, but saved it for when we paint the garage as well. I rebuilt the outer wall and screwed the beam for the partition wall onto the facade. It became extremely stable.
The entire framework is in 45x95 except for the lintel which is double 45x145. The gate is perhaps Sweden's most robust. A mistake meant it had to be a cross instead of a brace. The first brace ended up facing the wrong direction for some inexplicable reason. Must have turned the frame somehow along the way. But well, it became robust 😄
First, I attached the beam to the house and the garage's corner (directly onto the underlying framework, here is where the gate’s hinges are attached, through with slightly recessed carriage bolts covered by the facade boards at the front). Then added the lintel. After that, I cast a footing and used a half-post support for the middle beam, otherwise, it vibrated a bit at the bottom. Turned out well!
The opening at the bottom is for the cats' sake 🙂
Tip if you're using double beams and facade boards is to consider the total depth when building the gate. It’s about 120mm deep that needs to move freely when the gate opens, so leave a significant gap between the gate's framework (where the handle is) and the "frame," otherwise they will clash when opening.
[image][image]
But thanks for the inspiration- it turned out great!
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