Just try it actually. A battery charger usually works well. The wire should preferably be kanthal wire, but others work too, iron wire or preferably stainless MIG wire.
Suitable wire dimensions are about 0.3-1 mm depending on the length.
Iron wire tends to stretch though. The current should be adjusted so the wire glows slightly in the dark.
Even better is a variable DC power supply. Battery charger powered via a dimmer perhaps? or via an autotransformer.
Make an arc of, for example, wood, and keep the heating wire stretched with a spring.
Model aircraft enthusiasts cut some foam with heat, search for more info in these circles.
//Lars
Suitable wire dimensions are about 0.3-1 mm depending on the length.
Iron wire tends to stretch though. The current should be adjusted so the wire glows slightly in the dark.
Even better is a variable DC power supply. Battery charger powered via a dimmer perhaps? or via an autotransformer.
Make an arc of, for example, wood, and keep the heating wire stretched with a spring.
Model aircraft enthusiasts cut some foam with heat, search for more info in these circles.
//Lars
This one wasn't dumb: http://club.cycom.co.uk/hotwire/Hot_wire_cutter_for_polystyrene_foam.html
Here is where you can buy the soldering gun: http://www.svebry.se/lod1.htm
or even cheaper here 109:- http://www.autemashop.com/category239_1.htm
Here is where you can buy the soldering gun: http://www.svebry.se/lod1.htm
or even cheaper here 109:- http://www.autemashop.com/category239_1.htm
Of course, it is possible to cut 1.2 m. The difficult part is usually making a neat cut. Make sure the wire stays taut, at the right temperature, and above all, arrange so that you can feed calmly and securely. A steady pace is important for a smooth surface. Kantaltråd 1mm is probably a good choice, it doesn’t soften from the heat, so it doesn’t stretch. Copper wire softens from heat. Feed carefully, don’t force it.
For example, two trestles, a sturdy board, so you get a table that is 2x the length of the boards, mount the attachment points of the cutting wire in the center of the board, opposite each other at the height you want the boards to be. A helper who gently separates the two halves after the wire is probably a good idea. Think of a planer, crossed with an overturned bandsaw, and you’ll understand what I mean.
It will probably work well outdoors, the wire will be inside the insulation and only cooled by the material. The gases are not toxic, polyethylene only produces water and carbon dioxide upon combustion. Good luck, let us know how it went!
For example, two trestles, a sturdy board, so you get a table that is 2x the length of the boards, mount the attachment points of the cutting wire in the center of the board, opposite each other at the height you want the boards to be. A helper who gently separates the two halves after the wire is probably a good idea. Think of a planer, crossed with an overturned bandsaw, and you’ll understand what I mean.
It will probably work well outdoors, the wire will be inside the insulation and only cooled by the material. The gases are not toxic, polyethylene only produces water and carbon dioxide upon combustion. Good luck, let us know how it went!
Foam plastic is normally made of polystyrene so the fumes are probably not directly healthy. Extruded polyethylene, in any case, I haven't heard of.
See e.g. here: http://www.paroc.se/insulation/rock...e991c8bafd9e9ddfc1256c590040a775?OpenDocument
Or here: http://www.paroc.se/insulation/rock...fe8535bddb92d474c1256c59004054f9?OpenDocument
See e.g. here: http://www.paroc.se/insulation/rock...e991c8bafd9e9ddfc1256c590040a775?OpenDocument
Or here: http://www.paroc.se/insulation/rock...fe8535bddb92d474c1256c59004054f9?OpenDocument
Exactly Eld, cellplast is made of polystyrene.
Thank you for the correction.
Polystyrene produces water and carbon dioxide when fully combusted, otherwise also carbon monoxide and soot.
Outdoors or with cross-draught is recommended for large-scale heat cutting of cellplast.
However, it is not extruded - but expanded .-)
Thank you for the correction.
Polystyrene produces water and carbon dioxide when fully combusted, otherwise also carbon monoxide and soot.
Outdoors or with cross-draught is recommended for large-scale heat cutting of cellplast.
However, it is not extruded - but expanded .-)
Foam plastic and plastic roofing are best shaped with an angle grinder. Unfortunately, the cut-off wheel probably doesn't reach deep enough for it to work in your case 
/E
/E
But if you instead mix the styrofoam (cellplast) with gasoline, you get a paste that you can seal the wooden boat and other things with... 8)
8)