Hello,
I've been having major issues with groundwater occasionally seeping into our pool equipment box, where the pump, filter, etc., are located. Twice, the water level in the box has risen about 50 cm, completely submerging the pump/electric motor. Of course, the power supply is through a ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI). However, an electric motor doesn't fare well with water, so I've had to replace the bearings twice and remove rust.
We sometimes have high groundwater levels. Had I known this before, I probably wouldn't have built it this way. But it is what it is now.
I've drained under the box afterward, but it doesn't help.
I've tried sealing with silicone, but that hasn't helped.
Now I need your tips on how to solve this.
I've been thinking along these lines:
- Build a new equipment house above ground. Big job but doable. A downside could be having the pump above the pool's water level.
- Make the entire box watertight with fiberglass/plastic. Will water seep in between the box and plastic?
- Seal with rubber mass
- Raise the pump/motor in the box (it's currently at the bottom, removed in the picture). But this doesn't guarantee anything.
- Use a drainage pump as I do today, but with automation. But a downside during power outages.
- Any other creative solutions?
Yep, it's simplest. But I'd rather avoid it if possible. I had a system connected to the pump before, but it malfunctioned (sensors with probes in the water) and couldn't be trusted.
the best thing if it necessarily has to be in the slope would have been to make the box in stainless steel and made it sealed directly. Now it looks like formplyfa? Which probably sooner or later will rot away anyway.
Your entire wading pool is in water and bathing on the outside, water on the wrong side.
Those who built it or did you build it yourself?? have not taken groundwater into account.
Normally, with groundwater presence, a groundwater pump is placed outside the pool and about 0.5 m deeper than the bottom of the pool.
If you have wooden construction below ground, it does not fare well; the wood will soften over time.
To fix it without digging a new hole, clear out your pit so you can dig at least 0.5 m deeper than the pool, place a 400mm drainpipe, and drill a lot of holes in it.
A pump doesn’t cost much with a float (not a tilt switch), remove the check valve and run a hose downhill to a ditch so you can handle winter as well.
If there is bad slope, you can start 1 dm below ground and out with a slope.
I've been considering getting plates and putting them on the inside/floor and welding them together. But I'm not exactly an experienced welder...
I would think that what keeps the box from floating up today are all the pipes/hoses that go to and from the box. The groundwater is just too high during spring and after prolonged rain.
There is already a groundwater pump on the outside of the pool about 0.5m deeper, controlled by two level floats, etc. It works well. But the machine box is 6m away from this, and the groundwater around the box doesn't get drained to the drainage well before it seeps into the box instead. The alternative is to dig another drainage well placed by the box. But that means I have to rely on yet another pump...
Then it's either very tight under the pool, or you have a vein where the water goes into the hole when it rains. Sorry, but the only chance is another pump or to move the stuff up.
Why two float switches, how thick is the pipe that the pump sits on, float switches must have a good width to not go against the wall and not function well, better with one that has the level part fixed on the pump.
About 1.5m down in the ground, there is gray silt soil (or whatever they are called) and it’s not very draining. Around the pool and box, it is backfilled with macadam and gravel. But since groundwater is replenished outside these dug holes, the water will remain in the holes for a while due to the silt soil underneath.
I have two float switches to achieve better hysteresis. That is, I want the pump to start when the upper one is activated and continue running until the lower one is deactivated.
The float switches I use are for the industry and are relatively small and compact.
Ok it is a mischievous thing with silt, it is basically watertight, that with your floats makes the pump run a bit longer and doesn't cut in and out intermittently, there must be a relay somewhere, that's good. But your pit with the things in it is the problem, they sometimes drown, how is it, can you dig out so you reach the gravel that is under the puddle, then the water will go to your current pump pit
That's exactly what I did last year. Removed decking and other materials between the box and pool. Dug a 2m deep trench about 6m long between the box and pool. Put in drainage pipe and refilled. But that's not enough. The box needs to be sealed. Or move everything up. Or have a pump ready in the box all the time.
The box is not located near the pool, how was the drainage hose laid, from the pit to the pool edge, Does the level in the pit become higher than in the pump pit?
The drainage hose was laid from the box's pit to the pool's pit, with a certain slope. The pool's pit is drained all around and the hoses are led to the drainage well, which then has a drainage pump.
Difficult case doctor cried
If the drains go to the pool, and it rises in the pit, then something is preventing the water from creeping around or under the bottom of the pool, maybe your silt, it is like flour in consistency and has moved.
Just what I'm thinking, if your pit gets a higher level than the bottom of the pool, then maybe a PEM pipe 25 mm
that goes from the pit directly to the pump pit, becomes a level on the surface down there that moves, but it is probably difficult to achieve now,
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