Hello.
I've searched but haven't found a good answer.
I have a raised wooden floor where I've installed water-based underfloor heating. EPS sheets s250 so they are hard and durable, aluminum heating plates.
I'm going to lay tiles in the hallway.
I'm going to use flexible adhesive and grout. No issues with that.
I bought the underfloor heating from Termeco and they initially said it was okay to apply adhesive directly to the plates.
BUT.
The plumber who connected everything said he's seen too many of those where it cracked and recommended ideally using leveling compound. But I don't want that. It takes too long and builds up too much.
Then he suggested 15mm floor gypsum, or if I'm sure the floor is stable, renovation gypsum 6mm.
I'm going to use the renovation gypsum to avoid building too high of a floor. Otherwise, the entrance will turn out really weird. I'll end up with a Hobbit entrance.
When I then set tiles on the gypsum, it's primer, flexible adhesive, tiles, and flexible grout.
The problem is how to glue the gypsum down??
- Some say I should lay age-resistant plastic and glue the gypsum on that, so the whole thing floats over the underfloor heating.
- Others say to use regular water-based glue, roll it out, then attach the gypsum boards directly.
- Others say to use Ardex S48, in other words, an expensive adhesive to attach the gypsum boards.
I can't make sense of this.
I want to buy it today at Byggmax or Bauhaus or Hornbach. I want to finish it this weekend, so I don't have time to wait for mail order or Beijer, hence Ardex S48 is completely out. So...
How would you or have you done it?
I've searched but haven't found a good answer.
I have a raised wooden floor where I've installed water-based underfloor heating. EPS sheets s250 so they are hard and durable, aluminum heating plates.
I'm going to lay tiles in the hallway.
I'm going to use flexible adhesive and grout. No issues with that.
I bought the underfloor heating from Termeco and they initially said it was okay to apply adhesive directly to the plates.
BUT.
The plumber who connected everything said he's seen too many of those where it cracked and recommended ideally using leveling compound. But I don't want that. It takes too long and builds up too much.
Then he suggested 15mm floor gypsum, or if I'm sure the floor is stable, renovation gypsum 6mm.
I'm going to use the renovation gypsum to avoid building too high of a floor. Otherwise, the entrance will turn out really weird. I'll end up with a Hobbit entrance.
When I then set tiles on the gypsum, it's primer, flexible adhesive, tiles, and flexible grout.
The problem is how to glue the gypsum down??
- Some say I should lay age-resistant plastic and glue the gypsum on that, so the whole thing floats over the underfloor heating.
- Others say to use regular water-based glue, roll it out, then attach the gypsum boards directly.
- Others say to use Ardex S48, in other words, an expensive adhesive to attach the gypsum boards.
I can't make sense of this.
I want to buy it today at Byggmax or Bauhaus or Hornbach. I want to finish it this weekend, so I don't have time to wait for mail order or Beijer, hence Ardex S48 is completely out. So...
How would you or have you done it?
Bauhaus just responded and suggested: http://www.bauhaus.se/maxi-bond-x-treme.html#full-description
They have previously recommended PL600 for attaching EPS panels to the concrete, so I don't really trust their semi-professional recommendations.
They have previously recommended PL600 for attaching EPS panels to the concrete, so I don't really trust their semi-professional recommendations.
I still have some of this left from when I glued the EPS: http://www.bauhaus.se/golv-och-vagglim-5-l.html
It was comparable to Bostik's Multi-Tac, which is actually what the supplier recommends.
Do you think it could work?
It was comparable to Bostik's Multi-Tac, which is actually what the supplier recommends.
Do you think it could work?
With the time you have available, it is true that both self-leveling compound and the other solutions you are considering work, although everything except the self-leveling compound has the risk of cracking. If I were in the same situation as you, I would use lip flexicol, which is available over the counter at places that sell lip (such as fredells), but unfortunately, you have the same drying time there as for self-leveling compound.
How can 6mm make it a hobbit entrance? 
Floor gypsum is also 12mm, right? You shouldn't lay plastic because then the gypsum will be almost completely loose and won't serve any purpose.
Are the boards on 22mm floor chipboard? How are the boards fastened to the floor?
If you don't want to do it properly, you might as well lay the tiles directly on the boards...
If you use leveling compound, it's about a day's drying time before you can lay the tiles.
Floor gypsum is also 12mm, right? You shouldn't lay plastic because then the gypsum will be almost completely loose and won't serve any purpose.Are the boards on 22mm floor chipboard? How are the boards fastened to the floor?
If you don't want to do it properly, you might as well lay the tiles directly on the boards...
If you use leveling compound, it's about a day's drying time before you can lay the tiles.
