Always a 120x45 that you cut out at each horizontal 45x45....
If so, a 70 stud and block behind....emde said:
A standing 45x70 where the narrow end aligns with the roof beam and sill, I think that's what's meant. It doesn't need to have contact with the backing 45s.
I have a similar garage (Lundqvist?), I used horizontal 45x45 cc60, screwed osb and plasterboard with half-board offset. Stable? So-so, not completely satisfied but it's good enough.
I have a similar garage (Lundqvist?), I used horizontal 45x45 cc60, screwed osb and plasterboard with half-board offset. Stable? So-so, not completely satisfied but it's good enough.
Ahh. Yes, that's one way to do it. The outer wall itself remains without additional framing. It's for the inner wall to be stable. That's probably how it's going to be. I want it to be stable when you're doing it from the start. Yes, it's Lundqvist.eran said:
Place the 45x70 rule flush with the inside of the existing 120 rules and ignore the 5mm gap towards the lying 45x45 rules. It will be a substantial reinforcement of your inner surface but won't affect the outer cladding. Toe-nail/screw into the top/bottom plate. I can't see that the work of notching out a 120mm rule would add much more support compared to the effort.emde said:
Exactly.eran said:
But you could possibly place a small piece about 5mm as padding behind the middle stud if you want to fiddle a bit. It should stabilize a little.
But personally, I would definitely skip more than one padding / stud. That is, only place it against the middle of the three horizontal nailing strips.
57-58mm
For single drywall, you screw with 30-35mm screws (slightly different for different brands, but typically 3.5x32 mm). You can (should?) use this for the first layer.emde said:
If it's double drywall, use screws for double drywall, which are usually 41-45mm long. Screw the second layer into the studs as well. But stagger all sheets by half a sheet so that the seams don't end up in the same place. Place the cut edge of the drywall toward the walls, not a trimmed beveled edge, to avoid tedious and tricky spackling work.
You can also first place an OSB, chipboard, or plywood board on the ceiling, and then the drywall. If the fire rating is met, which it probably should be.
The advantage of this is that you can more easily attach things to the ceiling, e.g., easily place fluorescent fixtures exactly where you want without dealing with toggle bolts, etc. Maybe a hanger for the car roof box, canoe, or skis, and other things you might want to hang up in the ceiling.
Another advantage is that it's actually easier to install an OSB board on the ceiling, it weighs less and doesn't break as easily as drywall.
The downside is obviously the price.
But if so, first screw the wood panel with 32mm chipboard screws (this screw countersinks the head into the wood, while the drywall screw has a smooth head to prevent the paper from tearing).
Then screw the drywall with staggered seams and 32mm drywall screws, and now it's not so important exactly where you screw, you have OSB everywhere.
Additionally, feel free to rent a drywall lift for a day when it's time to install the drywall on the ceiling. It probably costs under a hundred in rent, and if everything is prepared, the floor is empty and clean, etc., you and a friend can install 100 sqm of drywall in a day.
Triple drywall ...Enk Projektet said:
41mm is enough.