Hello
I will have a garage with a workshop. Ytong 365 outer walls. Roof with 400 mm insulation. Slab 400 with 300 insulation.
The garage doors have U 1.0. The garage has only outer walls on 3 sides, the 4th side is 365 ytong for the inside of the house.
To the question.
I will have 1 sink in the workshop where the pipes are cast into the slab and the pipes from the air pump are drilled through the wall, then run up inside the garage to the ceiling, out to the water pump.
Will any of these pipes freeze? Or do I need to have heating there?
There will be natural ventilation in the areas.
I will have a garage with a workshop. Ytong 365 outer walls. Roof with 400 mm insulation. Slab 400 with 300 insulation.
The garage doors have U 1.0. The garage has only outer walls on 3 sides, the 4th side is 365 ytong for the inside of the house.
To the question.
I will have 1 sink in the workshop where the pipes are cast into the slab and the pipes from the air pump are drilled through the wall, then run up inside the garage to the ceiling, out to the water pump.
Will any of these pipes freeze? Or do I need to have heating there?
There will be natural ventilation in the areas.
If the garage is located in the southern part of the country, it will likely be above freezing indoors year-round without a heat source. I can only compare it to my stone cellar with meter-thick granite walls. It is never below freezing there, at the lowest at least +5. If the drain goes through the slab down to nearly frost-free depth, it won’t freeze either. (Drains can be 30-40 cm higher than water pipes) I don't understand your reasoning about the air pump and the water pump.
During longer cold spells, there is a risk of frost indoors because the slab is insulated against the warm ground. If the slab had been uninsulated, you would have ground heat just like Justus's basement. Recommend a frost guard.
I was thinking a bit about what Oldboy brings up, before I formulated my answer, namely the absence of a heat source. My thought was that the lack of ground heat could be compensated through the insulated slab's heat capacity. During prolonged cold, it might not be enough, so a frost guard is probably a wise investment.
I don't think so. A frost guard only uses electricity when needed.
Unfortunately lack relevant experience to assess it.
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· Västerbottens län
· 18 051 posts
It's called a thermostatM MackanM said:
Protte
Are there thermostats that go down to zero?
All the ones I've seen (regular radiators, both water-heated and electric) usually don't go lower than about +5C. I suspect it's a safety margin, especially for water systems, as frost is very bad for those.
My experience with unheated spaces is that during winter (in Skåne), the temperature indoors often hovers around zero. That is, in colder weather over a few days (down to -10C during the nights and a few degrees below zero in the daytime), it gets slightly below zero indoors. Otherwise, during normal slushy winters, it's just above zero.
So a thermostat with a minimum setting of +5C would probably maintain just around +5C, thus providing constant minimum heat.
Now, I guess the energy required wouldn't be particularly large, but still.
All the ones I've seen (regular radiators, both water-heated and electric) usually don't go lower than about +5C. I suspect it's a safety margin, especially for water systems, as frost is very bad for those.
My experience with unheated spaces is that during winter (in Skåne), the temperature indoors often hovers around zero. That is, in colder weather over a few days (down to -10C during the nights and a few degrees below zero in the daytime), it gets slightly below zero indoors. Otherwise, during normal slushy winters, it's just above zero.
So a thermostat with a minimum setting of +5C would probably maintain just around +5C, thus providing constant minimum heat.
Now, I guess the energy required wouldn't be particularly large, but still.