Hello, currently my small carpentry shop is located in an old shed that probably had animals in it xxx years ago. Half of the floor is stone, then some concrete, and a boarded-up (wooden planks) waste and feed trough.
All in all, we're talking about a 25 sqm area.
I was thinking of putting some 45x95 studs, 34x195 planks over that, then OSB, and finally parquet or laminate flooring on top.
The 34x195 planks are only for stability since I have 2-3 machines weighing over 200kg.
The insulation will be placed on boards nailed underneath the studs, is this a bad idea or will it work?
All in all, we're talking about a 25 sqm area.
I was thinking of putting some 45x95 studs, 34x195 planks over that, then OSB, and finally parquet or laminate flooring on top.
The 34x195 planks are only for stability since I have 2-3 machines weighing over 200kg.
The insulation will be placed on boards nailed underneath the studs, is this a bad idea or will it work?
The most important thing is that you don't have wood against concrete, but instead, for example, roofing felt in between. I think you will also need to ventilate the floor, so that moisture rising through the concrete has somewhere to escape.
The plan was to place a beam along the walls with joist hangers so that the beams are about 5cm off the ground since there are a lot of irregularities. I also thought about laying some stone slabs we have lying around to stabilize certain areas where I know more weight will be.ricebridge said:
The question is more about whether the lower planks can move a lot and then damage the top floor through ups and downs in the floor?/ whether it will slope over time?
I have built a carpentry workshop in an old barn, 25 sqm. There was no concrete, just soil/topsoil once everything was cleared. I laid down landscape fabric, leveled it off with about 10 cm of gravel, concrete slabs (30*30, about 5 per 5 meters for each bearer), bearers, 45*195 on cc 100 (I think), then wooden floor joists, 45*195 with a subfloor and insulation. The floor is made of 2-inch planks, though I regret not tongue-and-grooving them. Stable and good, my planer machine, 400 kg, stands there.
So, what I would say is that the floor "stands" on the ground and does not "hang" on the walls of the barn as far as I'm concerned.
Ok, then I understand.Holmettfemtio said:
45x195 should support at least three meters of free length under normal load and cc 30. At cc 60 about 3m.
200 kg sounds a lot, but if you place me and someone else with the same amount of middle-aged spread side by side at the dining table you are up to that load. Admittedly spread over about 2 sqm, but with point loads from the chair legs which are significantly more severe. I have never heard of a normally constructed Swedish venue collapsing during an ongoing annual meeting with the Swedish Wrestling Federation, and the piano with a solid cast iron frame standing in the normally constructed living room at our home shows no sign of heading to the basement after over eight years in the same spot.
Of course, it all depends on the joist hangers and how you attached them. There you have the real weak point, and I would probably sleep more soundly at night, if I were you, if I instead put down the floor joists on some solid bearing beams anchored next to earthquake security in the walls, instead of relying solely on the joist hangers.
(EDIT: Now I see I misread your post, that was what you intended to do. Sounds good!)
ps! If you place the floorboards edge to edge, I don't think the OSB will make any difference. The most important thing when laying laminate flooring is to lay it perpendicular to the floorboards. This way, it will withstand the natural flex of the floorboards.
Even if they are not tongue and groove?
By perpendicular, you mean parallel, right?
I mean in the direction that the floorboards do not lie. Across, crosswise.
There is a high risk that moisture from the ground will cause moisture damage in such a floor. It is the dense upper floor (OSB and laminate) that prevents moisture balance. If instead you have only rough tongue-and-groove planks for the floor, (e.g., https://virkesgrossisten.se/shop/product/45x145-industrigolv?tm=), and no more than about 95 mm of insulation, it should be fine. I wouldn't attach the floor to the walls but let it rest on stone/concrete/tiles with sill insulation between the support and the floor joist. If you're worried about the floor moving due to heavy machinery, it can be screwed to the concrete floor, e.g., via angle iron.
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In my workshop, I ripped everything out, insulated, and poured new concrete.
Do NOT lay parquet/laminate, it will become dangerously slippery with a little sawdust on it.
Protte
Do NOT lay parquet/laminate, it will become dangerously slippery with a little sawdust on it.
Protte
That floor was very interesting, but it seems I can't find it closer to where I live. Their shipping becomes crazy if I want it down to southern Småland. I'll have to snoop around a bit more.Oldboy said:
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Shite, I didn't think of that, you are absolutely right.