TIG & stainless steel is even more pleasant. I would like to have all external iron such as steps, roof ladder etc., unfortunately, it costs a bit too much :eek:

Here is the picture of the bottom of the cart as promised:
 
  • Bottom of a wagon with visible rust and wear on a metal surface and wooden panel, part of a discussion on stainless steel welding costs.
v-g v-g said:
TIG & stainless steel is even now more pleasant. Would like to have all iron outside like that, steps, roof ladder, etc., unfortunately, it costs a bit too much :eek:

Here is the picture of the bottom of the carriage as promised:
Old thread but giving it a try. Do you have/had a kyllingekärra? Have you changed rivets if so? Do you know the size in that case? Thinking primarily about the sides.
 
A can of Quick Bengalack silk matte rust protection paint, suitable for metal and hard plastic, with graphics of a bicycle and garden furniture.
What do you think about painting a worn trailer bed with this color?
 
A affepaffe said:
[image]
What do you think about painting a worn trailer bed with this paint?
That paint is intended for metal.
 
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Will have a new tray cut. Wonder what kind of rivets are used and how to rivet. I've never done it.
 
A affepaffe said:
Will have a new platform cut. Wonder what kind of rivets one uses and how to rivet. I've never done it.
Stainless Vang bolt
 
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It is possible to fasten it with a countersunk sheet metal screw.
 
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Ok, drill out old rivets but how do you rivet? Tools, type of rivets? I have a rivet tool that I used to rivet a snow guard earlier. These look like deeper rivets?
 
Long rivets are needed because the board is thick. I would have used countersunk machine screws instead.
 
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