I wonder how to attach a new intermediate floor to an existing exterior wall (45x195mm stud frame).
The floor will have a span of 660 cm and be made of glulam beams 90x315 mm (calculated in design software). My idea is to place a horizontal glulam beam 90x180 mm "notched in" 45 mm into the stud frame for the new floor to rest on.
Questions:
- Is my construction solution good?
- Should I "notch in" 45 or 90 mm into the stud frame?
The span in the frame structure is cc60, where the beam is 90x180 mm, which can also be considered overkill, but there is a window in the wall, hence that dimension.
The joist itself has a span of 6.6 m, hence the 90x315 mm glulam dimension.
If you notch a 90 mm wide stud 45 mm, you get a protrusion of 45 mm. How do you handle that? Could it be an option to instead of using 90x180 to use a 45x220 and attach it to the existing vertical studs with a 45x45 as support under the 90x180? That way, you get a smooth wall and avoid the work of notching. It might also be cheaper. I find it hard to imagine that a 45x220 wouldn't be sufficient, but it depends on how wide the window is.
The offset is not a problem because I already have 45x45 with insulation on the inside of the frame. However, your idea wasn't so bad; not having to notch would indeed be nice. But unfortunately, there is a horizontal window in the wall that is 160 cm, hence the 90x180 laminated beam.
The real question is whether the downward torsion on the 90x180 beam becomes too great if I only notch 45 mm versus if the frame becomes too weak if I notch 90 mm (only 105 mm left).
If you notch out with a really tight fit, the joists aren't significantly weakened (I think, but it's best to mention). Another thing I believe is that a 45x220 can easily handle a span of 160 cm, but what I believe doesn't really help you. However, I would consider letting an experienced carpenter make that assessment. Depending on whether you have space above the window, you might be able to add another 2x4 under.
Already with 90x180, I have quite a tight fit upwards, so I don't want a 45x220. The floor on the upper level will simply be too high if I choose a 45x220.
Isn't it possible to do as I did in my custom build? I used 220x45 for both the bearer and the floor joist, but the principle can be used with other dimensions as long as you can find suitable joist hangers.
You don't have to notch anything, and you can also have an unbroken plastic sheet through the entire interdeck.
Already with 90x180 I have quite a tight space upwards so I don't want a 45x220. The floor on the upper level will simply be too high if I use a 45x220.
Then I would notch in 45 mm. That will work well.
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