Took down the ceiling moldings and it looks like you see in the pictures. It's an outer wall consisting of Mexitegel, Lecablock, and plaster on the inside. Of course, I will put up new moldings when I am finished, but should one: leave the crack as it is, fill with some foam, fill with putty or mortar, and if so, what kind?

Gap between ceiling and wall after removing molding, revealing wall structure with cement blocks. Discussion on how to fill the crack.
 
S
Microkatten
What happened there? I assume the leca blocks behind are okay and that it's just the plaster that has sunk for some reason. What type of mortar is it? If you're not sure exactly, you can fill in with a weak mortar, e.g., pure lime mortar or clay mortar. It's always good to seal potential risks for draught...
 
How do you know what kind of use it is?
 
Microkatten
There is no one who has mortared leca with lime mortar so if you use C-mortar it will turn out well.
 
Great, thanks for the response! I will install ventilated Nivellgolv on the same floor and have removed part of the old floor to inspect the concrete slab which looks uneven. The walls are Leca so I need to seal at the bottom of the walls against the floor and also seal any potential leakage points in the slab. Is it suitable to use the same render for this? For example, one of these?:
http://www.beijerbygg.se/store/priv...bruk/fasadputs/putsbruk-c---kc?artikel=804507
https://www.bauhaus.se/putsbruk-c.html
Uneven concrete slab with exposed edges and wooden framing in a renovation project, showing surface irregularities and gaps.
 
On the floor you take a cement mortar. You remove all the wood I assume?
 
Stefan N said:
On the floor, you use a cement mix. You remove all the wood, I assume?
Thanks, yes I'm planning to remove all organic material from the slab. I just hope the casted studs aren't too tightly attached :)
 
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Sutteräng said:
Thank you, yes I plan to remove all organic material from the slab. Just hope the cast-in beams aren't too hard to remove :)
I've done that job, the cast-in beams were a real pain. I used a hammer drill with just the hammer function activated and a small chisel, and I chipped it away quite easily.
 
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