Planning an extension and need help with how to construct my wall. I've understood there are a few different variants. I don't want an unnecessarily thick wall but still within the guidelines, of course.

Vertical wood paneling with cover - nail battens - wind barrier - 45x145 (including insulation) - Vapor barrier - 45x45 (including insulation) - OSB - gypsum

A few questions:
Is this wall sufficiently insulating, or do I need to use 45x170 instead of 45x145?

Should the 45x45 studs be attached horizontally or vertically (along the 45x170 studs)? Is there a risk of thermal bridges if I attach vertically? Is it okay to attach OSB and gypsum on horizontal studs, feels a bit wrong? How do you do it?
 
It is best to change the direction of the insulation to minimize thermal bridges.

The thickness of the wall is entirely up to you and your preferences, but a new house today has between 200-300 mm of insulation. It depends a bit on what type of heating you have, I think, whether the extra cost is worth it.
 
You can place osb vertically, but do as huggan says for the best and easiest result. Once you've put up the osb panels, you can place the plasterboard as you like (since you screw them into the osb panels and are not dependent on the placement of the studs).
 
Thank you for the reply, do you mean that I can place OSB vertically on horizontal beams?
 
thomasonit said:
Thanks for the response, do you mean I can put OSB vertically on horizontal studs?
Yes, that's fine, it doesn't matter at all. Just want to double-check to make sure I understood correctly (it's easy to misread sometimes :) You are thinking of placing 45 mm insulation inwards, which means the 45x45 mm studs will be lying down, which in turn means the OSB boards will also be lying down. Did I get that right?! It is (I think) a bit more cumbersome to build with lying boards as you have to cut them lengthwise, but it's certainly doable! Maybe you could even put the OSB boards standing... In any case, it doesn't matter for the actual construction how you do it, but my advice is to have the plasterboard standing as it's easier.
 
We expanded this summer (1930s house).

According to the calculations we received and that were approved by the municipality, we went with:
Outside to inside
Panel - air gap - dense insulation board (45) standing with plastic cups - 145 insulation standing - plastic - 45 insulation lying - OSB - gypsum.

All the installation, electricity and water, were run in the innermost 45mm.

Edit: Paroc calls the outermost board a climate board.
 
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In all my constructions, I have placed horizontal studs on the inside and mounted vertical boards on these. As long as you mount wood and gypsum boards with staggered joints, the walls become very stable.
 
On isover.se, you can easily calculate how much insulation is needed for it to be approved.
Personally, I'm going to start building the frame next week and I'll be using 45x145 + 45x45mm.
 
Thanks for all the tips!
 
Montören said:
At isover.se you can easily calculate how much insulation is needed for it to be approved.
I myself will start building the frame next week and I'm going with 45x145 + 45x45mm
Interesting, I'll check that out right away. If I interpret you correctly, maybe my initial thought on wall thickness will be sufficient then.
 
There are no requirements for the exterior wall. However, there are requirements for energy needs, but this is not determined only by the walls! If you have many and large windows, you may need to compensate with very thick walls. Similarly, you can have quite thin walls if you have few windows!
 
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