Example of GOOD solution with nail batten for horizontal cladding, with cross insulation behind?
What are some GOOD solutions if you want to have horizontal cladding, but still want to cross the insulation with an outer insulation layer of 45mm, while also using wind protection boards?
The load-bearing frame consists of vertical studs.
On the outside of that, you nail horizontal battens 45x45 where you cross the insulation to reduce thermal bridges.
On top of that comes the wind protection board, which is gypsum and therefore fragile.
The only way to enable horizontal cladding is to cross the nail battens 28x70 so they become vertical, on which the horizontal cladding is nailed.
The problem with this is that you cross twice, leaving a void behind the wind protection board, which means it risks breaking with each nail that goes through the outer panel and then the nail batten, and thus also through the wind protection board, which risks cracking since there is no support behind it.
The only solid alternative is not to cross the insulation but to nail the 45 directly to the frame (or skip it entirely and use wider studs), then the wind protection board on which the nail batten is nailed.
Is there any GOOD solution for this at all?
The load-bearing frame consists of vertical studs.
On the outside of that, you nail horizontal battens 45x45 where you cross the insulation to reduce thermal bridges.
On top of that comes the wind protection board, which is gypsum and therefore fragile.
The only way to enable horizontal cladding is to cross the nail battens 28x70 so they become vertical, on which the horizontal cladding is nailed.
The problem with this is that you cross twice, leaving a void behind the wind protection board, which means it risks breaking with each nail that goes through the outer panel and then the nail batten, and thus also through the wind protection board, which risks cracking since there is no support behind it.
The only solid alternative is not to cross the insulation but to nail the 45 directly to the frame (or skip it entirely and use wider studs), then the wind protection board on which the nail batten is nailed.
Is there any GOOD solution for this at all?
West coast board+vertical sparse.
Not entirely comfortable with such relatively untested solutions ...S Simsonsson said:
Additionally feels somewhat weak considering that the spike rule is attached to distances... however, I have never worked with it so I have no experience with that product.
It is 22mm panel that needs to be nailed, and a nail should go into the substrate 2 times the depth of the thickness of what is attached. That is, 44 mm into the wood behind in this case.R ramafred said:Regarding the panel, choose a nail that is 48mm long. In other words, a panel nail. If I understood that question mark correctly.
45x45 or 45x70 would have fixed it instead of 28x70. That will probably be the only option in the end.
And sure, you can use shorter nails, but then you are back to that it’s not a "good," but rather a half-baked solution
Though the two times in is outdated regarding just panel, unless you are going to use exactly 45 timber.
A cam-threaded panel nail has better withdrawal values than a 3" with a square profile.
So definitely not a half-baked solution, but absolutely right.
Edit - and you follow ama house instructions.
A cam-threaded panel nail has better withdrawal values than a 3" with a square profile.
So definitely not a half-baked solution, but absolutely right.
Edit - and you follow ama house instructions.
You gain nothing from a sipk that is longer than the lumber you're nailing into is thick.
But you should install vertical 45x45 regel, wind barrier, vertical 22x45 battens, horizontal panel. This way, you don't puncture any wind barrier regardless of nail length, and it becomes a very stable construction.
Yes, but then you haven't crossed the insulation underneath, which is basically standard today, to avoid thermal bridges.Erik_Hansson said:
You do it behind the 45an, for example with a lying 45 towards the stommen. There will be no thermal bridges.
Yes, across twice yes. The problem is that it then becomes 45 mm thicker, which doesn't always fit.Erik_Hansson said:
No, of course. But, if it fits, you get a more stable construction where it's also possible to go down and insulate the sill.