K Kane said:
Coach's tip. I would have turned down the inside of the handle mount to M6 and then put an M6 Molly plug in the drywall. If the other 2 mounts are already stable and the current hole is not too large for the Molly.
I had planned to replace it with a Molly. Today it's held up with a 3/8'' bolt with a 3/8'' extension nut.

So if I instead buy a similar m10 it might also work. (it would then be a different shade than the old ones, but it's better than nothing)

like this one:
 
  • A metallic coupling nut for connecting threaded rods.
Nicro Nicro said:
Insert the perfo sleeve into the hole, fill with the material that expands and hardens. It looks like a coarse screw, so it's probably best to pre-drill when the material has hardened. A "regular" screw could have been screwed in without pre-drilling.

[link]
Do you think it's a good idea to dispense that material into a large cavity behind a drywall?
It's meant to fill and "repair" holes. In this case, the "hole" is 0.5x2.4m?

It's an excellent material if we were talking about some form of concrete or similar.
 
Dowser4711 Dowser4711 said:
Do you think it's a good idea to push that mass into a large cavity behind a drywall?
It is meant to fill up and "fix" holes. In this case, isn't the "hole" 0.5x2.4m?

It's an excellent mass if we were talking about some kind of concrete or the like.
It expands through the perforated sleeve and takes "support" behind the drywall.
 
MathiasS MathiasS said:
Yes, it is, but then you'll need black magic to get that short ling in there if you don't want to tear down the new nice wall.
Do we know what's behind the wall, maybe it's not freshly painted on the other side of the wall?
 
There is a kitchen on the other side.
 
MathiasS MathiasS said:
There is a kitchen on the other side.
Then black magic might be the only option if you don't want to open the newly painted wall..
 
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Nicro Nicro said:
It expands through the perforated sleeve and takes "support" behind the drywall.
The variants I have used have "expanded" a few percent, not like foam sealant.

It is not intended for large cavities but for damaged holes.
 
Dowser4711 Dowser4711 said:
The variants I have used have "swelled" a few percent, not like expanding foam.

It's not intended for large cavities but for broken holes.
Then you haven't tried this one.
 
It doesn't matter what you fill it with as the plaster itself will not hold.
 
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Nicro Nicro said:
Then you haven't tried this one.
However, I have looked at its instructions from Fischer and they do not include this type of use in how they recommend it to be used.
 
Dowser4711 Dowser4711 said:
However, I have checked its instructions from Fischer and they do not include this type of application in how they recommend it to be used.
Screenshot of Fischer's website showing detailed instructions for using Fill&Fix, a solvent-free injection compound, with emphasized sections.

I have a bit of insight into Fischer after having been the product manager there.
 
A suggestion: Enlarge the hole enough (maybe 50 x 100 mm) to be able to insert a joist/wood piece. It is screwed in place with drywall screws through the drywall, then put a new piece of drywall in, spackle, and paint. If the wall is newly painted, the shades should match.
Some work, of course, but probably faster than dealing with a lot of special solutions. And you'll get a really good wood piece to attach the handrail to.
 
M martinradbo said:
One suggestion: Enlarge the hole enough (maybe 50 x 100 mm) to fit in a stud/wood piece. Attach it with drywall screws through the drywall, then place a new piece of drywall, spackle, and paint. If the wall is freshly painted, the shades should match.
A bit of work, of course, but probably quicker than dealing with lots of special solutions. Plus, you get a really solid wood piece to attach the handrail to.
Do you mean that you should attach it to a stud that's only screwed into drywall?
 
Dowser4711 Dowser4711 said:
Do you mean that you should attach it to a stud that is only screwed into drywall?
Absolutely. It works well if you just have a sufficiently large stud piece. Drywall is strong in that direction. It's a bit like a molly plug, which makes the contact area against the drywall, so to speak, larger. And the wooden piece has an enormously larger surface than the molly plug.
 
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