How to tackle a rock-hard oak beam in order to insert a screw that will carry some load?
The barn on my sectioned-off farm has a solid oak beam wall facing the stable (which I don't have animals in).
Without a doubt, I could believe the barn has stood for a hundred years, and the farm is certainly from the 1800s at least, but renewed here and there over time.
I am trying to mount Elfa brackets from inside the stable, through plyfa, and drive the screws into the oak beam.
In several spots, it has gone relatively easily, but now I'm facing a square decimeter of what seems like rock-hard oak.
I try pre-drilling with 3.5 mm to then want to insert a 5 mm screw (80/90 mm).
So I've test-drilled in different positions around the line where the fourth Elfa bracket should be attached. Up/down is flexible, but sideways I have to keep the line.
My home remedy is to dip the drill, and then the screw, in a bit of oil before breaking them off in futile attempts to penetrate.
Trying with canola oil, but it doesn't contribute much.
Anyone with better suggestions?
I've test-drilled in different positions around the line where the fourth Elfa bracket should be attached. Up/down is flexible, but sideways I have to keep the line.
The barn on my sectioned-off farm has a solid oak beam wall facing the stable (which I don't have animals in).
Without a doubt, I could believe the barn has stood for a hundred years, and the farm is certainly from the 1800s at least, but renewed here and there over time.
I am trying to mount Elfa brackets from inside the stable, through plyfa, and drive the screws into the oak beam.
In several spots, it has gone relatively easily, but now I'm facing a square decimeter of what seems like rock-hard oak.
I try pre-drilling with 3.5 mm to then want to insert a 5 mm screw (80/90 mm).
So I've test-drilled in different positions around the line where the fourth Elfa bracket should be attached. Up/down is flexible, but sideways I have to keep the line.
My home remedy is to dip the drill, and then the screw, in a bit of oil before breaking them off in futile attempts to penetrate.
Trying with canola oil, but it doesn't contribute much.
Anyone with better suggestions?
I've test-drilled in different positions around the line where the fourth Elfa bracket should be attached. Up/down is flexible, but sideways I have to keep the line.
What type of screwdriver/impact driver do you use?
What happens when you try to screw in? Does it bind, or is it the screwdriver that can't handle it?
What happens when you try to screw in? Does it bind, or is it the screwdriver that can't handle it?
Self-builder
· Stockholm
· 10 293 posts
What kind of screw are you using? Does it have a cutting tip?
Wax is also a good lubricant for screws in wood.
Wax is also a good lubricant for screws in wood.
Maybe it's an idea; big hole and plugA ArneTW said:
A BLUE one!R RalleB said:
(just joking)
I don't know the power, but it's a fairly powerful Makita. 18 V, if I remember correctly. But using the cordless drill doesn't help either for better effect.
Nothing, it just splinters the plywood but doesn’t move a millimeter inward, two broken drill bits later.
Answer yes, cutting tipR Robert-san01 said:
Buildmax shelf item, 5.0x90mm
Hmm yes perhaps it's worth trying?
Do you have any suggestions on what kind of wax it should be?
Self-builder
· Stockholm
· 10 293 posts
Many screws are usually waxed from the factory as it also works as rust protection. I would try a bit of candle wax.S Solbacken (Lindome) said:
What are you using for a drill if you can barely get into the wood? A sharp metal drill should have no problem making holes in the hardest oak.
When pre-drilling in oak, you must choose a drill bit as close as possible to the diameter of the screw. I then use a bit of paraffin, which I scrape onto the screw. The final tightening is best done by hand. Use screws with good heads, such as torx. I have ruined many tools on old oak.