Hello,
I want to drill into walls where my stud/AC/metal detector indicates there are wooden studs. Is it possible to drill into a wooden stud for the purpose of hanging a wall shelf or TV wall mount?
As my username suggests, I am new to anything related to construction and barely know what a wooden stud is.
I want to drill into walls where my stud/AC/metal detector indicates there are wooden studs. Is it possible to drill into a wooden stud for the purpose of hanging a wall shelf or TV wall mount?
As my username suggests, I am new to anything related to construction and barely know what a wooden stud is.
Hello and welcome. Is it a gypsum board on the outside? If so, you don't need to drill, just screw directly with a wood screw when there is a stud behind. If it's only a gypsum board and nothing behind it, I recommend a Molly, a special screw with a plug that you insert into the drilled hole.
Thank you! And thanks for the quick response.
When I knock on the wall it sounds dull, so I strongly assume it's concrete or something similar. How do you determine if there's something else on the surface? Should I drill and use a Molly regardless, given the suspicion that it's concrete?
When I knock on the wall it sounds dull, so I strongly assume it's concrete or something similar. How do you determine if there's something else on the surface? Should I drill and use a Molly regardless, given the suspicion that it's concrete?
If it sounds dull and a bit hollow, it's likely a type of board on the wall. In that case, molly plugs work well (also called metal expanders). If you find a backing wooden stud, you should use a regular wood screw, as mentioned.Byggnoob said:
If it sounds solid, like knocking on a large stone, then it's concrete
You'll need to use a rotary hammer to make a hole, into which you place a plastic plug, and then screw in with a "regular" wood screw.
Now I've knocked on the living room and hallway walls a few times again, compared the sounds carefully, and used a video as a basis for what should be drywall and what is stone. I should get a Molly plug for the wall in the hallway (the one that sounds dull).
Regarding the type of drill; I only have a hammer drill at the moment. Is it okay to use that for both walls, or should I buy, for example, a spiral drill for the drywall?
Regarding the type of drill; I only have a hammer drill at the moment. Is it okay to use that for both walls, or should I buy, for example, a spiral drill for the drywall?
You don't need to buy more tools. Your hammer drill is sufficient for both types of wall materials. If it's a gypsum wall and you're going to use molly, there are a few things you need to find out. The boards can be of different thicknesses, and even double boards. Since molly screws have different length "collars" depending on the thickness they are intended for, I find molly a bit tricky. You have to try to measure the thickness of the wall and buy the right molly. If you're not hanging extremely heavy items, I think drywall anchors work much better. They are like a cone with sharp threads that you screw in after pre-drilling, or if you're a bit careless, make a small hole with an awl or something similar. Some, like the one in the picture, can often be tapped directly in a bit and start screwing when the threads get a grip. Then you screw a regular screw right into the anchor. I have myself mounted TV brackets with these, and they stay put firmly. Just make sure you use enough of them.
http://www.bauhaus.se/gipsplugg-metall-gkm12k.html
There are various materials, plastic, metal, round, flat. I like the round ones in metal...
http://www.bauhaus.se/gipsplugg-metall-gkm12k.html
There are various materials, plastic, metal, round, flat. I like the round ones in metal...
Hello again,
Had a friend over tonight who noticed my slaggborr (a no name brand) and immediately said, "Oh, that looks like a cheap drill, it won't handle concrete. You need to buy a new one." So the project is on hold. Do you really need "pro brands" to drill into concrete/stone ...? His reason for my drill not holding up is that it will take a really long time before the hole is drilled compared to a "solid drill," and that the hole might become too large. What do you think?
Had a friend over tonight who noticed my slaggborr (a no name brand) and immediately said, "Oh, that looks like a cheap drill, it won't handle concrete. You need to buy a new one." So the project is on hold. Do you really need "pro brands" to drill into concrete/stone ...? His reason for my drill not holding up is that it will take a really long time before the hole is drilled compared to a "solid drill," and that the hole might become too large. What do you think?
Yes, try it. You'll notice right away if it takes forever to drill into the concrete. I've experienced both normal concrete that works excellently with a regular cheap hammer drill and some sort of reinforced, Armageddon-proof concrete that required a robust rotary hammer. A hole becoming too large is due to a weak hammer drill or rotary hammer being used for a long time, causing you to unconsciously wiggle the drill and make the hole bigger.
...and as mentioned, differentiate between a drill bit (the thing that makes the hole) and a drill machine (the thing that makes the bit spin). Investing in good drill bits is worth the money, and make sure to replace them when they become dull. There is a big difference in quality.
To drill into gypsum, use a cheap (but new/sharp) wood drill bit. Drill without the hammer action, otherwise it will be a mess.
...and as mentioned, differentiate between a drill bit (the thing that makes the hole) and a drill machine (the thing that makes the bit spin). Investing in good drill bits is worth the money, and make sure to replace them when they become dull. There is a big difference in quality.
To drill into gypsum, use a cheap (but new/sharp) wood drill bit. Drill without the hammer action, otherwise it will be a mess.
I agree with all previous speakers. Feels like a bit of overkill to buy a Hilti rotary hammer for 3000 SEK for 4 holes. Your buddy has too much money!
Your drill is likely sufficient; it's often the drill bit or the "borren" as they say that matters. A cheap machine for a couple of hundred works, but not cheap drills; a set for 39kr with 8 bits for each material seldom works well. However, good drill bits for home use don't have to cost much; a set with the 5 essentials for a hundred usually works well, then you buy one for concrete/brick and one for metal.
Knock with your knuckle; if it sounds like you're knocking on asphalt, it's more like knocking on a kitchen table or a moving box, then it's probably drywall behind it.
If that's the case, use a small metal or wood drill, e.g., 2-3 mm. I usually use sharp metal drills as they're convenient if you want to go through a metal stud behind the drywall. If it goes straight through, you've gone through the drywall; if wood comes out after a while, you've found a stud. If you want to use the hole, take a larger drill and bore it to a suitable size, or alternatively, leave it or fill it with putty and try a new spot.
Knock with your knuckle; if it sounds like you're knocking on asphalt, it's more like knocking on a kitchen table or a moving box, then it's probably drywall behind it.
If that's the case, use a small metal or wood drill, e.g., 2-3 mm. I usually use sharp metal drills as they're convenient if you want to go through a metal stud behind the drywall. If it goes straight through, you've gone through the drywall; if wood comes out after a while, you've found a stud. If you want to use the hole, take a larger drill and bore it to a suitable size, or alternatively, leave it or fill it with putty and try a new spot.
I, being a strange huggan, am a noob so that's automatic. Probably the friend too, given that he mostly had issues with the brand rather than need/functionality.
Thanks for all the really good tips, it's probably the drills that might need replacing - I bought a cheap set as Andy mentioned, and probably only need two drills. Then it's just as well to buy two of good quality rather than a "drullepake"t with several bad ones.
Thanks for all the really good tips, it's probably the drills that might need replacing - I bought a cheap set as Andy mentioned, and probably only need two drills. Then it's just as well to buy two of good quality rather than a "drullepake"t with several bad ones.
Before acquiring more tools and drills, find out what the material really consists of. By tapping and comparing sounds, you won't get a complete picture. Instead, tap a small nail where the holes are supposed to be. That way, you'll notice what the surface material is as well as what's behind it.