Hello!
We have a walkway between the house and the carport where I'm planning to build a simple partition wall. We have Benders 400x400x50 on the walkway, and I would like to drill holes in the tiles to set in post shoes.
Do you have any tips on what type of drill to use for making the holes in the tiles? Also, am I thinking correctly that I lift the tiles in question and dig underneath to pour in some sort of cement? As you can see, I don't have experience with this.
Thanks in advance!
(Sorry if this is the wrong section, hope the admin moves it if so.)
We have a walkway between the house and the carport where I'm planning to build a simple partition wall. We have Benders 400x400x50 on the walkway, and I would like to drill holes in the tiles to set in post shoes.
Do you have any tips on what type of drill to use for making the holes in the tiles? Also, am I thinking correctly that I lift the tiles in question and dig underneath to pour in some sort of cement? As you can see, I don't have experience with this.
Thanks in advance!
(Sorry if this is the wrong section, hope the admin moves it if so.)
It sounds like a complicated way to drill a hole in the slab. The essential thing is to get down a plinth that is either cast on site or buried as pre-cast. It's good if the plinth is higher (5-10 cm) than the surrounding slabs so that the end grain is not unnecessarily low. Then you can use an angle grinder to cut the necessary fitting pieces of paving stone around the plinth.
I understand what you mean, TS. I think it works with a regular concrete drill bit that you put in a rotary hammer (usually SDS or SDS+ or SDS Max). The hammer/machine you use will determine the type of attachment you need on the drill bit. For this type of work, you can preferably buy the drill bit at Biltema. I think you will need a drill bit of at least 20mm, but check with the post shoe you will use.
I would have marked on the existing slabs, where they are now lying with a cross on each slab. Preferably make sure the holes are more or less in the middle of the slab (less risk of the slab breaking when you drill).
Then I would have lifted the slabs and, just as you describe, dug a hole. I might have chosen to cast in a paper tube to have full control of the final level. You want it to match the level of all the other slabs. If you just pour concrete into the holes, there is a risk that the slab will sink somewhat.
There is always a risk that frost will move your concrete, and the deeper you dig, the less the risk. It is always a balance between time and expected long-term result.
Good luck!
Edit: Try making a test hole in a slab you have lying around, or buy a new one and see if it works without the slab cracking. Possibly a wet slab could hold together better than a dry one (guesswork). For your concrete hole, you should use regular ready-mixed concrete labeled "grovbetong." For example:
https://www.bauhaus.se/probau-grovb...MI-fPx1Kuo9wIVB9GyCh0VsQvgEAQYASABEgK86vD_BwE
I would have marked on the existing slabs, where they are now lying with a cross on each slab. Preferably make sure the holes are more or less in the middle of the slab (less risk of the slab breaking when you drill).
Then I would have lifted the slabs and, just as you describe, dug a hole. I might have chosen to cast in a paper tube to have full control of the final level. You want it to match the level of all the other slabs. If you just pour concrete into the holes, there is a risk that the slab will sink somewhat.
There is always a risk that frost will move your concrete, and the deeper you dig, the less the risk. It is always a balance between time and expected long-term result.
Good luck!
Edit: Try making a test hole in a slab you have lying around, or buy a new one and see if it works without the slab cracking. Possibly a wet slab could hold together better than a dry one (guesswork). For your concrete hole, you should use regular ready-mixed concrete labeled "grovbetong." For example:
https://www.bauhaus.se/probau-grovb...MI-fPx1Kuo9wIVB9GyCh0VsQvgEAQYASABEgK86vD_BwE
Last edited:
Possibly, it might be a bit too much work to drill holes in all the tiles, and it might be simpler and just as nice to place the posts so that the post shoes end up in the joint between the tiles. If you have a very tight joint, you can use an angle grinder to make space in the stone to accommodate the shoe, which will then stand between two tiles.
This is where the OP's chosen method becomes complicated because a slab is to be placed over a casting tube with fresh concrete, i.e., a drilled paving stone is placed, and the post bracket is inserted. If something goes wrong at this stage, the slab cannot be adjusted afterwards, neither on day 2 nor when settling occurs. That's why I'm advising against the method.D Derbyboy said:
Regardless, it is very difficult to adjust a fixed concrete post shoe. But, of course, it becomes even more difficult to adjust if the plate is also fixed.
To do it correctly, i.e., to get a good result even in the long term, I would dig down to frost-free depth. Place a cardboard tube and then concrete the post shoe at the joint between two slabs.
To do it correctly, i.e., to get a good result even in the long term, I would dig down to frost-free depth. Place a cardboard tube and then concrete the post shoe at the joint between two slabs.
The partition wall probably needs to align with something else, which means the original poster cannot choose to use post shoes in a slab joint with notches on adjacent slab/slabs (which I also believe is a better option than drilling holes). If the footing is visible, a square shape is preferable, easier to fit slab pieces next to it.
I would reconsider the solution. Especially on the type of wall and what loads it will be subjected to. When you cast, you use concrete.
Without knowing everything, check what other sizes of concrete slabs are available. It might be easier to cast a pillar at the same height as the slabs and then, for example, lay a half-slab next to it.
Without knowing everything, check what other sizes of concrete slabs are available. It might be easier to cast a pillar at the same height as the slabs and then, for example, lay a half-slab next to it.
Remove tiles where the plinths will be. Dig holes in the ground with a wet vacuum. Dig deep and bottom with crushed stone/gravel. Screw all post bases onto a long plank and direct them into the dug holes, prop up the plank at the right height and fill with concrete to about 4 cm below the other concrete tiles. Let it set. Now measure where the holes for the post base should be in the tiles. Draw a straight line over the marking and cut the tile with a concrete cutter. Grind out for the holes and place the divided tile on a sand bed at the correct height.
If you have compact clay soil and line with crushed stone, you create a collection area for water. Not good if it freezes.