Hello!

Planning for a balcony for the house, with a sunroom underneath that we intend to insulate.

The appearance is similar to this one (from the Myresjöhus website):

Modern house with a large balcony and an enclosed glass room beneath it, surrounded by greenery and lit pathways, under a dusky sky.

Planning to build it myself, size is about 13 m2. It would be helpful if I could find some sort of building instructions for such a balcony? I have a general idea of how to do it, but I'm unsure about some things like the number of posts and how to mix pressure-treated and regular planed wood since the posts will be part of the interior wall and should be painted. You need to build a framework for the balcony and decking in treated wood, and then under the decking, a sloped "box" with tar paper to collect the rain. Against the wall, it must be sealed somehow, probably with metal. The house has board and batten, so I guess you have to cut these off with a drip edge and then put metal underneath that bends towards the patio floor so the water that comes towards the house wall goes on top of the metal and then down into the "box" under the decking.

Anyone have tips on a drawing or can provide some guiding tips? We won't make as luxurious a sunroom as in the picture, instead, there will be posts down on piers, then we'll build a patio underneath and then install standard spring-fall glass panels. We will have a heat source, so some insulation will be added to the ceiling and floor.

/Mr. HLH
 
I would probably have chosen to first build the lower part from regular timber and put a felt roof on it.

Then build a decking and railing on top of it, the advantages of this construction are that it is easy to make it watertight and looks more solid.
 
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Kallebo
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You should start by determining the conditions for establishing the foundation of the "extension." If the nature of the ground is such that it cannot easily support the loads that the construction entails, you must choose a solution where the conservatory and balcony are self-supporting without being attached to the house. This results in a different construction than if the ground has sufficient bearing capacity.
 
larsbj larsbj said:
I would probably start by building the lower part out of regular lumber and place a felt roof on it.

Then to build decking and railing on top of that, the advantages of this construction are that it is easy to seal and looks more solid.
Hello Lars!

You have a very interesting idea, but I can't quite envision how it will work. Isn't this how you normally build verandas with a balcony on top? This is exactly what I'm looking for a detailed construction description of, especially how to create this "felt roof" and especially how the connection to the existing house will be, since it's tongue and groove there. I've built a small shed with loose timber and have a decent understanding of how to lay a roof with roof boards, felt, and triangle strips along the corners and then nailed felt on it, and a gutter at the front. However, I can't see how I should connect the "floor structure" in treated wood to this construction since the felt roof slopes down more than the decking floor needs to?

I need some help with the details as you mention here;

/Mr. Hlh
 
J justusandersson said:
You should start by determining the conditions for establishing the "extension". If the nature of the ground is such that it cannot easily bear the loads that the build brings, you need to choose a solution where the conservatory and balcony stand on their own without being attached to the house. This requires a different construction than if the ground has proper load-bearing capacity.
Hi!

The ground consists of granite bedrock and an 80 cm deep layer of concrete-hard clay, with 10 cm of topsoil on top. I was planning to dig/chisel two or three holes for the posts and add some gravel and then a pier. This should withstand the loads the front bearer will be subjected to. Then I will, of course, set piers for the lower deck floor as when building a deck; you don't want a springy floor in the outdoor structure.

The construction measures 3x4.5 meters, and three piers should be enough to support the front beam/posts. If using C16 quality for the entire structure? It feels like overkill with glulam.

/Mr. Hlh
 
I've made a sketch that perhaps summarizes more clearly how the construction looks in my head. The red-marked areas are things I'm uncertain about. Of course, the shuttering boards and roofing felt should follow the same slope as the beams, it turned out a bit odd in the drawing... The dimensions of the deck and beams are not actual measurements, but rather consider it as a conceptual sketch.


Concept sketch of a construction project with labeled parts including rafters, roof, and glass panels. Red annotations indicate uncertainties and questions.
 
Hello again!

I hope a carpenter or other experienced builder has time to look through my questions?

I've been thinking further and have come up with a reasonable construction plan to build the decking floor on top of the felt roof, as someone suggested. See image below

Diagram illustrating construction of a deck floor over a tar paper roof, showing placement of angled floor joists and gable boards with notes and a question on beveled strip.

The only thing I don't understand is how to handle the fillet strips placed against the fascia boards on a normal felt roof. You fold up and nail the felt, then add a cover plate for protection from above and the side. But if I am to build a balcony, I want two angled floor joists resting on the felt roof at the outer edge. Is there a way to combine these two so that I can make the felt floor waterproof and also build a decking floor on top? I don't see the solution in my mind. Someone is welcome to make a rudimentary sketch in paint or something, it's usually easier to understand that way.

Thanks in advance,
Mr. Hlh
 
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cliffton
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Bernieberg Bernieberg said:
We are currently building a porch with a balcony above and have made some progress. It's not the same style and there are differences in construction, but perhaps this thread can provide some inspiration and tips for any issues:

[link]

Hello and thank you for the response! I'm beginning to think that I posted in the wrong forum, maybe I should have put it under "roof" instead.

Anyway, you have made quite a substantial impact on the existing house, which is understandable since a lot was rotten. I can see that you didn't place the inner support beam on top of the battens but instead cut it away and screwed it directly against the facade/inner studs. Thanks, that answered one of my questions. However, I don't see how you have done the sealing between the battens and the roof; that's the only missing picture of your nice roof haha ;) I assume the sheet metal/roofing felt is somehow placed behind the battens to direct water running down the facade out onto the roof so that it doesn't get between the facade and the sunroom in any way?

/Mr. HLH
 
I also suggest the thinking "build the porch/sunroom first and then add the balcony on top."

The floor joists for the decking need to be cut at an angle so that the decking is level, but the joists rest on the roof, preferably with a small gap from the roof. I advocate a hipped roof so that the eaves maintain the same height all around, but it would be even easier with a lean-to roof.

The connection of the porch roof to the facade depends a bit on the roofing material you choose, but as you mentioned, a metal flashing is needed that goes up behind the panel and then angles out over the roof.
 
Bernieberg Bernieberg said:
I also suggest the idea of "build the porch/conservatory first and then put the balcony on top".

The floor joists for the decking need to be cut into wedges so that the decking is level but the joists rest on the roof, preferably with a small distance from the roof. I advocate a hipped/hip roof so that the eaves maintain the same height all around, but it becomes even simpler with a shed roof.

The connection of the porch roof to the facade depends a bit on which roof covering you choose, but as you mentioned, a metal sheet (flashing) is needed that goes up behind the panel and then is angled out over the roof.

Thanks for the response. Since we're going to have a porch on top of the conservatory, we're thinking of putting a simple felt roof on the decking.

So there's no need for a triangular strip, we simply place the wedge-cut pressure-treated joist directly against the decking, and then fold up the felt against it? From the inside, the felt takes care of the water, and from the outside, there's a protective metal sheet that manages water from the outside of the wedge-shaped joist where no felt is present? That could work.

Do you think it's sufficient to go up with metal/felt behind the battens, or do you need to go into the actual facade boards? I've read that if the sheet metal worker does this, he removes the battens, routes a groove some decimeters above the roof, and inserts a metal piece that is bent so it sits in the groove and then goes down to cover the last decimeters of the facade and then out over the roof. After that, the battens are put back, which I suppose are mostly for decoration? You could seal with a little extra silicone....


/Thanks for the answers!
Mr. HLH
 
Hmm, I don't think you got the same picture of how the balcony is being built as I have. First and foremost, you write "veranda on top." I interpreted the initial post as meaning it would be an open balcony with decking, similar to the picture of inspiration you have? I'm basing my response on the latter. Perhaps there's a bit of terminology confusion.

I mean that you should finish the roof of the veranda completely, as if there would be no balcony. Then you place a loose joist frame on top for the decking to rest on (yes, some attachment to the house is needed, but the floor joists just rest on the roof). I'm not sure how okay it is to have a long-term load on a felt roof; we've personally chosen metal instead.

Regarding the metal flashing at the junction with the house, it's definitely not enough to just get it behind the battens. I don't know what your wall construction looks like, but you probably have a wind barrier or outdoor drywall on the stud frame. To do it properly, the flashing should go up behind these. You might have to replace some paneling around the connection.

Putting flashing on the exterior of exterior paneling is quite common, for example over windows, but it's really an emergency solution when someone has missed the flashing initially or something. In my opinion, it's already a failure if you also need to involve silicone. In your case, it feels even more important to do it right, partly because the consequence would be much worse if water is led into your insulated roof than if a flashing doesn't fully perform its function, and partly because hopefully, your construction will outlast a couple of panel replacements, and you don't want to integrate the roof and panel.
 
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