Hello.

It will be difficult to describe this well without pictures, but I'll try, and we'll see if anyone understands or if I have to try to draw something.

We live in a 1½ story brick house from the 70s. Originally, it had a single carport located a few meters from the house; the previous owner converted this into a double garage that is now attached to the house. This means the garage roof rests on the house's "wooden frame."

In the hallway, we have a door with a total wall opening width of 1400mm where the door is 1000mm wide and there's a side panel with frosted glass that is 400mm wide. So there is a "support" (where the two frames meet) in this 1400mm gap. This gap has two of the floor joists above it, and it looks like the extra weight from the garage roof has caused the beam that is there today (from when the house was built, before the garage roof was added) to sag and more or less rest on the door frame.

We are now considering replacing the door and installing a 1400mm wide door consisting of two sections that can be opened and closed separately. This will almost certainly cause a disaster as we remove the "support" in the gap. The sag might become so great that we eventually can't close/open the door without it hitting the frame.

Unfortunately, we can't prop anything up on the inside since there's a staircase beside the door, and I'm not keen on moving it to accommodate posts for a new beam on the inside.

So my remaining option is to reinforce from the outside; this is inside the catwalk attic, and there should be space to fit a solid glulam beam (that is, on top of the existing beam over the door, not replacing it). I was thinking of a 90x315mm beam that would more than likely support the weight from these two floor joists and the extra weight from the garage roof (we live in southwest Skåne).

The problem I have is that there's no space to place posts down to the ground because of the brick wall, so I'll have to screw it into the existing house framework, both above the door and on either side of the door (to find something that can carry the downward loads). So the only thing that will actually carry the weight of the new glulam beam are the screws I drive through the glulam beam into the house framework.

Does this sound completely crazy, or is it doable to get a new door, without a frame in the middle of these 1400mm?

/Magnus
 
G Gladh said:
Hello.

It's hard to describe this well without pictures, but I'll try, and we'll see if anyone understands or if I have to try to draw something.

We live in a 1½ story brick house from the 70s. Originally, there was a single carport a few meters from the house, which the previous owner converted into a double garage now attached to the house. This means that the garage roof rests on the house's "wooden-frame."

In the hallway, we have a door where the wall opening is a total of 1400mm wide and where the door is 1000mm wide, and then there's a side panel with frosted glass that is 400mm wide. This means there's a "support" (where the two frames meet) in this 1400mm gap. This gap has two of the joists from the ceiling above it, and it seems that the extra weight from the garage roof has caused the beam that is there today (from when the house was built, before the garage roof was added) to settle and more or less rest on the door frame.

We are now considering replacing the door with a 1400mm wide door comprised of two sections that can be opened and closed separately. This will undoubtedly lead to a disaster when we remove the "support" in the gap. The settlement will become so severe that we eventually won't be able to close/open the door without it hitting the frame.

Unfortunately, we can't support anything on the inside because there is a staircase next to the door, and I'm not too keen on moving it to make room for posts for a new beam on the inside.

So, I'm left with the option of reinforcing from the outside, this is inside the attic, and there should be space to install a substantial glulam beam (without replacing the existing beam over the door), I was thinking a 90x315mm beam would more than likely handle the weight from these two joists and the additional weight from the garage roof (we live in southwestern Skåne).

The problem I have is there's no space to set posts down to the ground because the brick wall is there, so what I'll have to do is screw it into the existing framework of the house, both above the door and on either side of the door (to have something that can take the loads downward). So the only thing that will actually carry the weight (on the new glulam beam) are the screws I drive through the glulam beam and into the house framework.

Does it sound completely insane or is it feasible to get a new door, without a frame in the middle of these 1400 mm?

/Magnus
G Gladh said:
Hello.

It's hard to describe this well without pictures, but I'll try, and we'll see if anyone understands or if I have to try to draw something.

We live in a 1½ story brick house from the 70s. Originally, there was a single carport a few meters from the house, which the previous owner converted into a double garage now attached to the house. This means that the garage roof rests on the house's "wooden-frame."

In the hallway, we have a door where the wall opening is a total of 1400mm wide and where the door is 1000mm wide, and then there's a side panel with frosted glass that is 400mm wide. This means there's a "support" (where the two frames meet) in this 1400mm gap. This gap has two of the joists from the ceiling above it, and it seems that the extra weight from the garage roof has caused the beam that is there today (from when the house was built, before the garage roof was added) to settle and more or less rest on the door frame.

We are now considering replacing the door with a 1400mm wide door comprised of two sections that can be opened and closed separately. This will undoubtedly lead to a disaster when we remove the "support" in the gap. The settlement will become so severe that we eventually won't be able to close/open the door without it hitting the frame.

Unfortunately, we can't support anything on the inside because there is a staircase next to the door, and I'm not too keen on moving it to make room for posts for a new beam on the inside.

So, I'm left with the option of reinforcing from the outside, this is inside the attic, and there should be space to install a substantial glulam beam (without replacing the existing beam over the door), I was thinking a 90x315mm beam would more than likely handle the weight from these two joists and the additional weight from the garage roof (we live in southwestern Skåne).

The problem I have is there's no space to set posts down to the ground because the brick wall is there, so what I'll have to do is screw it into the existing framework of the house, both above the door and on either side of the door (to have something that can take the loads downward). So the only thing that will actually carry the weight (on the new glulam beam) are the screws I drive through the glulam beam and into the house framework.

Does it sound completely insane or is it feasible to get a new door, without a frame in the middle of these 1400 mm?

/Magnus
Pictures of the inside and outside of the existing door and a picture of where the double garage is placed in relation to the door would help.
 
Hello.

Suspected that some pictures were needed, but I had to leave before I could take them beforehand, here are 5 pictures.

In the picture from kattvinden.
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I think (haven't really examined it all yet) that the framework there is to hold the underside of the roof extension in place, so I was thinking we need to remove the stud attached to the Asfaltsboarden, take away the asfaltsboarden, and then put up the glulam beam along there and past the truss stud that you can see going down at a 45-degree angle and screw it into the framework of the house and similarly on the other side, but there you can probably utilize the stud attached to the door into the garage as a "post."

Pictures of the door.
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One picture shows the gap between the door and the frame, right where the "post" is, and the other picture shows the nonexistent gap between the door and the frame in the middle of the door, so I suspect that removing the "post" created by the door frame and the side panel's frame would make the door impossible to open/close as the stud there now would sink even more.
 
  • Gap between the door and the frame with visible insulation material peeking out; close-up showing misalignment in carpentry work.
  • Close-up of a door frame showing a gap between the frame and door, with visible insulation and wood, illustrating a potential structural issue.
  • A white door in an interior hallway, with a glass panel and spiral staircase. The door frame shows visible gaps, suggesting structural issues.
  • Wooden beams and insulation in an attic space with visible roofing felt and a white pipe.
  • A white door with a glass panel on the right, set in a yellow brick wall under a white slatted ceiling, with a black rain gutter in the foreground.
Is the attic space on the extension? Or is it the eaves you see the inside of? I see insect nets, among other things.
Can't you just open up on the inside above the door and reinforce just there with a beam?
 
T Tompafix said:
Is the attic space on the extension? Or is it the eaves we're seeing the inside of? I see insect mesh etc.
Can't you just open up above the door on the inside and reinforce only there with a beam?
T Tompafix said:
Is the attic space on the extension? Or is it the eaves we're seeing the inside of? I see insect mesh etc.
Can't you just open up above the door on the inside and reinforce only there with a beam?
It's the eaves we're seeing the inside of.

Above the door there is already a beam if I understand correctly, so then I would have to place the new beam on the "outside" of this beam and that probably won't look good.
 
G Gladh said:
It is the eaves you see the inside of.

Above the door there is already a beam if I understand correctly, so in that case, I would have to place the new beam on the "outside" of this beam and it probably wouldn't look nice.
Okay. But you could replace the existing beam with a thicker one, or double the existing one. They weren't very skilled at placing beams over doors in the 70s 😀
 
T Tompafix said:
Okay. But you could replace the existing beam with a thicker one, or double the existing one. They weren't very good at placing beams over doors in the '70s 😀
I have opened up the eave and can now see that there is a beam over the door that is 70x220, but it is a regular wood stud, not a laminated beam. It will be difficult to replace it without tearing down half the house ;) so my first thought of placing a laminated beam outside and then bolting the laminated beam to the old stud will probably be easiest, giving the weight from the 2 floor joists more area to distribute their load on.

So I hope it doesn't settle a lot when I remove the extra "support" that exists between the door and side panel.
 
G Gladh said:
I opened up the roof overhang and can now see that there is a beam above the door which is 70x220, but it's a regular wooden stud, not a laminated beam. It will be difficult to replace it without tearing down half the house ;) so my first thought of placing a laminated beam outside and then bolting the laminated beam together with the old stud will probably be easiest, allowing the weight from the 2 floor joists to spread over a larger area.

Let's hope it doesn't settle too much when I remove the extra "support" between the door and the side panel.
Okay. You could try to push the stud back a bit before you screw the laminated wood in place.
 
T Tompafix said:
Okok. You can try to push back the beam a little before you screw in the laminated wood.
There is an extra board under the beam that I remove and replace with a thinner one, which will create more space between the frame and beams.
 
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