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R Rodgar Den Frie said:
Thanks

Can you describe in detail how you imagine a potential mold process in this wall looks like?
Just having a 2-3mm masonite nailed on a wooden frame with boards without an air gap will lead to moisture reaching the frame...

If there had been masonite, followed by ventilation and, for example, a lock panel, it would have been a better construction. In this construction, the moisture will be aired out in a better way...
 
Rejäl said:
Having only a masonite of 2-3mm nailed onto a wooden frame with boards without an air gap will cause moisture to seep through to the frame.

If one had masonite followed by ventilation and, for example, a lock panel, it would have been a better construction; in this construction, the moisture will be ventilated away in a better way...
Thanks

It sounds like you're thinking that the wall has an insulating material that CANNOT transport moisture.

That is, a non-hygroscopic material.

Is that so?
 
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R Rodgar Den Frie said:
Thank you

It sounds like you are thinking that the wall has an insulation material that CANNOT transport moisture

That is to say a non-hygroscopic material

Is that so?
But it doesn't matter, the framework must not be exposed to external moisture; if it is exposed to moisture load, it will be affected by, among other things, microbial growth such as mold.
 
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Rejäl said:
But it doesn't matter, the frame must not be exposed to external moisture; if subjected to moisture stress, it will be affected by, among others, microbial growth like mold.
Thank you

Is the horizontal timber in a log wall the frame?

Is it exposed to moisture?

Does microbial growth occur in it?
 
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R Rodgar Den Frie said:
Thank you

Is the horizontal timber in a logged wall the frame?

Is it exposed to moisture?

Does microbial growth occur in it?
Yes, all wood that is built in and becomes too moist and does not have an air gap that allows drying out between the moisture-exposing periods runs a high risk of being affected by microbial growth and mold.
Then maybe you should consider what kind of building it is. If it is an outhouse, shed, or similar that you do not live in, then maybe it doesn't matter as much. But as a residential house, it is not recommended.
 
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R Rodgar Den Frie said:
Thank you Can you elaborate, "...can start to mold" and "...hard to breathe." Masonite can transport moisture The joints in my wall are centered on the standing studs, and over them sits a vertically nailed sawback from sill to wallplate
Masonite is oil-hardened. This makes it resistant to some moisture. But it absolutely does not keep dry. The oil not only prevents moisture from entering the board, but also prevents moisture from escaping. So the little moisture that does enter the board will stay there long enough to start molding. Masonite works excellently as windproofing instead. It can also be used as an underlay for metal roofing instead of roofing felt. But it works very poorly in the open air.
 
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Not all masonite is oil-hardened, but the one I've used as a surface material for the doors of a few wood sheds is.
Oil-hardened masonite used as door surface on a woodshed, surrounded by trees.
 
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Rejäl said:
Yes, all wood that is built in and becomes too moist and does not have an air gap that allows drying out during the moisture-loading periods runs a great risk of being affected by microbial growth and mold..
Then maybe one should look at what kind of building it is; if it’s an outbuilding, storage, or equivalent that you don't live in, then it might not matter as much. But as a residential house, it is not recommended..
Thanks

I still think you are reasoning based on a modern conventional wall with plastic on the inside and non-hygroscopic insulation material

A log wall transports moisture in both directions

Just like the wall I am exploring
 
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R Rodgar Den Frie said:
Thank you

I still think that you are reasoning based on a conventional wall with plastic on the inside and non-hygroscopic insulation material

A log wall transports moisture in both directions

Just like the wall I am exploring
Yes, it's true that the log wall does, I am completely on board with your wall.
Your wall can work if you have an air gap...
 
R Rodgar Den Frie said:
The masonite is capable of stopping the wind and preventing water in liquid form from entering the wall

The wall consists of hygroscopic materials throughout which can transport moisture in both directions

We are talking about water in vapor form here
Just because the insulation is hygroscopic does not mean it can withstand moisture. I have two houses with masonite facades and can guarantee that it is neither windproof nor waterproof after a few years.
 
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Rejäl said:
Yes, it is true that the timber wall does, I completely agree with your wall.
Your wall can work if you have an air gap..
Thank you
 
useless useless said:
Just because the insulation is hygroscopic doesn't mean it can withstand moisture. I have two houses with Masonite siding and can guarantee that it is neither wind nor watertight after a few years.
Thank you
 
Rejäl said:
A masonite directly on a frame on an exposed side is not moisture-proof…
But if it has worked on a cabin since the thirties without causing mold or moisture damage behind, it is probably sufficient.
 
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F fribygg said:
But if it has worked for a cabin since the thirties without causing mold/moisture damage behind, it is probably sufficient.
Just because there is a house that survived does not mean that houses with masonite facades generally survive. It is likely due to many unknown factors and coincidences that have caused that house to survive. There are thousands of examples of houses that did not make it. Or actually, there aren't anymore, since almost all have been forced to be demolished. If it worked, we would see quite a few small houses and sheds clad with masonite, as it is cheap. It also has several advantages initially.
 
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A AG A said:
Just because there is a house that has survived, it does not mean that houses with masonite facades generally withstand. It is likely a number of unknown factors and coincidences that have allowed that house to survive. There are thousands of examples of houses that have not survived. Or actually, there aren't that many anymore, as almost all have been forced to be demolished. If it worked, we would see quite a lot of small houses and sheds clad in masonite, as it is cheap. It also has several advantages to begin with.
No, masonite is hardly the answer to which is the best facade. For many, masonite has worked surprisingly well and for decades withstood weather and wind, and if you're in the process of changing facades this spring, you might appreciate that previous owners didn't choose Sidiplattor or metal?
 
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