Do you need nogging here? Sketch of a deck construction

[optimum]

If you are planning to build a glass-enclosed outdoor room on your terrace, you must plan for it now. The load from the outdoor room will be transferred via the columns to the outdoor room, and that force must be accommodated by the construction of the terrace.

I built an outdoor room last spring and started by designing the outdoor room and then constructing the terrace.

I also insulated the floor with XPS boards to get a warm floor. It's single glass in the windows with metal film so they retain heat better. Excellent.

Note: Do not use EPS, known as Styrofoam, for insulation, as mice love to nest in it.

I also installed a frame in the floor where the tracks for the outdoor room will be, made of 34x145. Good for screwing in and stable.
Outdoor room Willab Garden with Halle plastic roof.

Consider which snow zone you are building in. This affects the load on the outdoor room. That load should be supported by the columns and the points for the columns.

 

[berisen]

If you're going to build a glass-enclosed sunroom on the deck, you need to plan for it now. The load from the sunroom comes via the pillars to the sunroom, and that force must be handled by the construction of the deck.

I built a sunroom last spring and started by designing the sunroom and then the construction of the deck.

I also insulated the floor with XPS boards to get a warm floor.
It's single glass in the windows and with metal film so they keep the heat in better. Awesome.

Note: Do not use EPS, so-called styrofoam, as insulation because mice love to build nests in it.

I also put in a frame in the floor where the tracks for the sunroom should be of 34x145. Good for screwing in and stable.
Sunroom Willab Garden with Halle plastic roof

So think about which snow zone you are building in. This affects the load on the sunroom. The load the pillars should handle and the points for the pillars.

Thanks for the great tips!

Yes, it probably doesn't hurt to add a few extra pillars or possibly stone slabs so that the support beams get a few extra support points where the intended sunroom is going to be, so I will absolutely do that.

 

[Anna_H]

Had previously considered doing insulation properly but I have probably concluded that the extra work and cost are not quite justified.

Insulation is cheap, a little Styrofoam and wind barrier between the studs, and it makes a huge difference, it doesn't have to be 40 cm insulation like dad has.

 

[optimum]

Thanks for great tips!

Yes, it probably doesn't hurt to add a few extra foundations or possibly stone slabs so that the joists get a few extra support points where the planned conservatory will stand, so I will definitely do that.

XPS is quite cheap, and I used 50mm boards.
I attached strips on the joists and placed the boards on these, about 10 mm gap to the decking so it shouldn't squeak. Wedged the boards in place with small pieces of XPS.
The floor never feels cold with this simple method.

See the picture to see how simple it is.

 

[berisen]

XPS is quite cheap and I used 50mm boards.
I attached strips to the joists and placed the boards on these, about 10mm gap to the decking so it won't creak. Wedged the boards in place with small pieces of XPS.
The floor never feels cold with this simple method.

See the picture, and you'll see how simple it is.

Nice! Can it stay like that without a roof for a year or two before the sunroom is in place, or will it get damaged in any way from it?

 

[optimum]

They are made to be placed in the ground. Also known as ground boards. Just make sure that rain and water from snow do not run towards the house.

You might want to slope the boards outwards so the water drains in the right direction. I covered the patio with a tarp until the roof on the conservatory was finished, but it was only a couple of weeks for me.

As you can see in the picture, the upper beams are intact without joints and therefore designed for insulation to be placed there. I also cheated a bit with cc measurement, which I adapted to the width of the XPS boards so I didn't need to cut them widthwise. Bought at Byggmax. Might be a good idea to go and check out the boards there.

https://www.byggmax.se/cellplast-xps300-p16474

 

[berisen]

While I have knowledgeable people here, I might as well ask about the dimensions of studs.

Is it overkill to use 45x170 for the studs as well, or is it a good idea? Otherwise, I was thinking if I could cut back a bit and use 145 for the studs and 170 for the three beams?

 

[optimum]

While I have skilled people on this thread, I can take the opportunity to ask a bit about the dimensions of the studs.

Is it overkill to use 45x170 even on the studs, or is it just good? Otherwise, I was thinking if one could save a bit there and use 145 on the studs and 170 on the three main beams?

It depends on the distance between supports and what loads you expect to have. I used one layer of 145 and one layer of 120. And many support points. At the bottom, there are stone slabs, 20 pieces, for a 20 m2 sunroom where the deck is almost entirely built up. Under the boards that the tracks rest on, there are plenty of studs. Quite a few joist hangers, etc.

 

[Nefrums]

I can recommend having studs directly under where the glass sections are to be placed. They are a bit sensitive if it flexes and can easily become stiff and hard to open otherwise. Also, dig down separate footings to attach the posts to.

 

[optimum]

Another tip
Start thinking now about how your sunroom will look and how you are dealing with heights.

That is, you probably have a patio door you will be entering the sunroom from, and it has a door that should also open without hitting the roof beams.
A common mistake, and it's annoying to have to cut out the roof beams to get the door open.

I designed the house first. Then the sunroom, and lastly the terrace for the sunroom.
Yes, the house already existed, but I started by measuring and drawing it, and then I continued with the design.
I have a tight fit between roof beams and rafters, with only 2 cm clearance, and both the plan and reality match.
I've seen people miss this, and it's not fun.
Willab has great design tools so you can dimension your sunroom and obtain the necessary measurements in advance.
Yes, they are a bit more expensive, but truly worth the price.
I got the glulam construction idea from Halle, which is available on YouTube.
If you need more tips, feel free to reach out.

Right now, I'm sitting in our lovely sunroom.

 

[optimum]

I recommend having studs directly under where the glass sections are to be placed. They are a bit sensitive if it flexes and can easily get stuck and become difficult to open otherwise. Also, dig in separate plinths to attach the posts to.

Absolutely right.
Another tip.
Everything should be very level and square, as well as measured.
I was careful but missed a couple of millimeters in a few places, and you notice that later.
Bought a good long level before, and it's a must.