Interesting, I'm in the process of completing a home theater where I plan to have space for a type twice as large center, and it should be possible to use these for mine as well (maybe).
Thanks for the update!
Check out keyhole mounts, the red speakers a bit further down
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Some manufacturers have them originally on, for example, surround speakers
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Yes, I'm familiar with those, I have them on surround speakers. For some reason, though, I don't want to screw such into a center speaker, and I also think it would require rather large wood screws in the speaker to hold. I don't see that it would hold better than what I've currently set up, I believe the weak point, unfortunately, is the drywall itself.
I'm wondering if I might have used the wrong expanders. They are made for 16 mm and up, so if 16 mm is the minimum thickness, one would assume that in this case the legs work more like claws rather than lying flat against the wall.
Maybe I should consider replacing the expander with one that's smaller, for example, those that have a max setting of 16 mm, at which the legs should lie flat against the inside surface and thus the construction should become significantly better?
In terms of durability, I don't really think there's an issue for plasterboard and wooden studs considering the previous speaker I had was only mounted in plasterboard. But sure, I don't remember if it was double or single plasterboard but it was probably single considering it was an interior wall in an apartment.
Looking back at my history, I see that I installed the TV with two 6e, two 5e, and two heavy wood screws in the stud, and it seems to work fine. So, I probably used the wrong expanders since 6e are made for single boards.
However, I have a faint memory of someone saying that it was extremely important for the legs to fully unfold, which made it better to use the "larger" model, but on the other hand, it might not be good if the legs don't quite reach. I definitely think it would have better stability if they are just at the margin, i.e., 16 mm, so the legs lie flat against the inner wall.
Does it sound reasonable to replace the two expanders?
I bought home toggle (M5) and expander (M6) but I still ended up using an expander made for 13 mm plasterboard since it worked so well for the TV. Before removing the old ones, I checked how they were holding, and they were actually quite loose in the wall, so it was no surprise that the shelf wasn't entirely stable.
When fastening the new expander, I of course used the expander tool, which makes it easy to know when the expander has fully opened. Last time, you could just push and push here, and you could only hear how the claws drilled deeper into the plasterboard. This time, it actually stopped, which indicates that the arms ended up correctly despite the strange thickness of the plasterboard.
Since the new expander set much better, the outer plate also disappeared, which meant that the bracket ended right up against the wall.
Since I had problems last time with the bottom lip of the bracket not resting fully against the shelf surface, I chose to glue small washers at the bottom on the back of the bottom lips against the wall. This probably wasn't needed now that they ended up right up against the wall. The result is that the shelves with loads tilt slightly upwards, but it's very little, the main thing is that it doesn't tilt down like before.
So now it's firmly attached to the wall, it feels really stable, and I'm confident it can handle a cat even if he manages to jump up.
I can actually recommend the brackets as long as you have the patience to fasten them correctly in the wall.
Okay, so I've mounted the DURALINE version as well, but this time in a concrete wall, and here's how it turned out:
The screws that were included on the left, the screw I chose to use on the right. It fit into the bracket (i.e., largest possible size for the screw); however, I had to drill a bit in the sliding holder on the backside.
It's certainly a substantial screw.
One can conclude that the Duraline brackets are of much higher quality than Biltema's version; it’s not the same kind of bracket. Duraline is much more robust in build, doesn't flex, and can be adjusted vertically by a few centimeters if the holes aren't perfect. I paid only 20-30 SEK for 4 Duraline brackets at a heavy discount, the regular price is around 100 SEK each, clearly more expensive than Biltema but also much higher quality and easier to mount.
If I were to buy brackets again, it would be Duraline.
At the same time, I must raise a warning about Beslag Design AB, from whom I previously bought brackets.
The construction was quite inadequate, with far too short screws and completely wrong plugs. The bracket consists of a special screw that is extremely difficult to dismantle without damaging the threads. The worst part is that the company Beslag Design AB does not take responsibility and help me get new special screws; instead, they just say they're not the manufacturer. They want me to throw away brackets worth 500 SEK instead of just replacing the special screw?
The difference compared to the console upstairs is seemingly none (other than the color), but it clearly looks bulkier in this last installation, probably because the TV is quite a lot smaller (50" versus 65").
I bought shelf brackets today and cut a track a bit below the top on the center.
Speakers Xtz 95 5.1 and 12.17 bass.
The stereo cabinet furthest to the right is 16mm MDF, home built to match the bass
Nice, looks fine but doubtful how nice it would have been if the center had been placed above the TV (where you would see the holder). Speaking of placement, your TV looks to be quite high up? If you measure from the top edge of the TV down to the floor, how far is that?
No, it probably wouldn't have looked so nice. I first thought of making my own keyhole fittings, but this turned out to be sturdier, more childproof.
I have 152 to the top edge, 80 to the bottom edge (55" TV), and eyes about 100 cm above the floor. I've also read about not having picture height. But now you can have your feet on the coffee table and/or lie in the sectional without it blocking the view or becoming uncomfortable, so it's a good height
My solution turned out not to hold up in the long run, the boards bent quite a bit so now I'm going to go with a similar solution as you, PeterStrandberg. Went out today and bought what I need but the store had nothing but 22 cm long arms and that's a bit too long I realized when I got home. I think 17 cm would have been much better in my case, so I'll likely have to go out and search tomorrow.
What length did you choose? And how did you handle the wall rail itself? I assume you sawed and then drilled additional holes yourself? So a total of 4 expanders?
Will be good with a wall rail, but I think it would also be good with these kinds of brackets, then the center will be close to the wall and fixed sideways.
It would probably have looked nice but the problem is that when you change the center, you also have to change the mount, which is not so fun (considering the drilling).
Or do you mean that one should screw the speaker into the console?
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