Hello!
I have bought a shower wall like the one below. Unfortunately, I have pipes running along the side of the wall so I can't get the entire wall down to the floor. I'm thinking of possibly asking someone to cut the board in the corner so it goes down over the water pipes. Or is there a way to do it myself?
http://www.bauhaus.se/integra-duschvagg.html
Sincerely,
Johan
I have bought a shower wall like the one below. Unfortunately, I have pipes running along the side of the wall so I can't get the entire wall down to the floor. I'm thinking of possibly asking someone to cut the board in the corner so it goes down over the water pipes. Or is there a way to do it myself?
http://www.bauhaus.se/integra-duschvagg.html
Sincerely,
Johan
you should not cut the glass. there are extra moldings.
if they don't have moldings, return the glass wall then
if they don't have moldings, return the glass wall then
There is a possibility that the pipes can pass by in the aluminum strip in which the glass hangs - I have installed 2 INR LINC Josephine shower walls and there was about a 60mm margin, and you could notch out in the ALU profile that was mounted on the wall to bypass the pipes.
Let it be said with your particular model, but there is at least a small possibility.
As Vojma writes, it is NOT possible to cut into the glass itself...
What I did was notch into detail A and then mounted the glass with its holder in the track.
Somewhat the same construction? Then there is a possibility...
Let it be said with your particular model, but there is at least a small possibility.
As Vojma writes, it is NOT possible to cut into the glass itself...
What I did was notch into detail A and then mounted the glass with its holder in the track.
Somewhat the same construction? Then there is a possibility...
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!When I think about it, I probably had to take a bit in the profile that holds the glass as well...
Just wet room board and tiles? If you manage to cut in the profile on the wall, you should get support from the sealing strip against the floor, and then the fastening could sit quite well. There's really no direct load. It doesn't hurt to add a couple of extra screws in the fastening. INR rails come un-drilled, so you can screw as much as you want - Unfortunately, you want to minimize the number of holes in a bathroom.
Remember to press silicone into the holes/plugs. It doesn't hurt to run a bead between the tile and the rail as well.
Just wet room board and tiles? If you manage to cut in the profile on the wall, you should get support from the sealing strip against the floor, and then the fastening could sit quite well. There's really no direct load. It doesn't hurt to add a couple of extra screws in the fastening. INR rails come un-drilled, so you can screw as much as you want - Unfortunately, you want to minimize the number of holes in a bathroom.
Remember to press silicone into the holes/plugs. It doesn't hurt to run a bead between the tile and the rail as well.
Try to arrange the pipes to run through the aluminum profile near the wall. Make sure that at least the aluminum profile has support at the bottom, either standing directly on the floor or with a small ledge of some kind, then you can glue the profile to the wall with, for example, PL400. This way, you get the largest load directly down to the floor, and the wall can safely hold the rest since the load is spread over a large area. You also avoid having to drill holes in the wall and hit studs, etc. Bök To follow all the rules,