Cut up for sewer, kitchen

[oStj]

Hello!

Finally, the kitchen renovation project is about to kick off, and my wife and I are in the midst of planning the layout! Currently, we think the fridge and freezer are completely mispositioned, right in the middle of one of the kitchen walls! Instead, we want to place them in the corner to get a more uniform kitchen counter. The problem is that where we want to place the fridge and freezer, the sink is currently located, and the drainage needs to be moved. It doesn't need to be moved far, about 1 meter.

The foundation is a concrete slab (house built in '79), so the idea is to break up and move the drainage 1 meter. I consider myself quite handy and have planned to do most of the kitchen renovation myself, but breaking up drainage is something I have no experience with. I have a few specific questions:

- Choice of tools? It's not a large area that needs to be broken up, is an angle grinder with a diamond blade sufficient for scoring, and then a rotary hammer with a chisel function to break up between the scores, or is a larger demolition tool required?

- How securely does the pipe need to be fixed before it's re-cast?

- I've read that you should avoid horizontal 90-degree bends; should two 45-degree bends work instead?

 

[freddan83]

Hello!

Finally, the kitchen renovation project is about to start, and my wife and I are in the middle of planning the layout! Currently, we think that the fridge and freezer are placed completely wrong, right in the middle of one kitchen wall! We want to place them in the corner instead to have a more unified kitchen counter. The problem is that where we want to place the fridge and freezer, the sink is currently located, so the drain needs to be moved. It doesn't need to be moved far, about 1 meter.

The foundation is a concrete slab (the house was built in '79), so the idea is to chisel and move the drain 1 meter. I consider myself quite handy and plan to do most of the kitchen renovation myself, but chiseling the drain is something I have no experience with. I have some concrete questions:

- Choice of tools? It's not a big area that needs to be chiseled, is an angle grinder with a diamond blade enough for scoring and then a hammer drill with a chisel function for chiseling between the scores, or is a larger chiseling tool required?

- How well must the pipe be fixed before it is re-poured?

- I have read that you should avoid 90-degree horizontal bends, should two 45-degree bends work?

https://www.jula.se/catalog/verktyg...re/elektriska-borrhammare/borrhammare-001099/

 

[justusandersson]

Have you checked if it's possible to run the drainage hidden behind the fridge and freezer and possibly the kitchen counter? A kitchen sink drain doesn't need to be very wide, and there is usually space. If you need to break up the floor, you will need to make a fairly large hole to get proper access. In that case, it always pays off to rent a more powerful model from Cramo or a similar place.

 

[Andreas Blomkvist]

I've done quite a bit of chipping in the basement and replaced the drain. Rent a big machine, it will take 20 minutes and doesn't cost much, I wouldn't even try with a small handheld.

I took out my rotary hammer with chipping function (Makita for ~3000 and tried chipping with it, fetched the big machine after 3 minutes as almost nothing was happening. It took me 1 hour to chip out the 4 sqm bathroom in the basement, did it yesterday, but then it was just about powering through.

I've always chipped out an extra 10cm next to the drain to have good access but also so you don't chip through anything. It's not difficult to run the drain and fix it yourself, but if you're the least bit unsure, spend on a plumber, he'll likely charge for a maximum of 30 minutes of work time + travel time, so it gets done right. Then it's just a matter of casting.

 

[oStj]

Thanks for all the answers! Reviving the thread again because I'm considering tackling the problem differently!

The house was built in '79 and at that time insulation was placed on top of the concrete. I've read the house description and found out that there is 60mm of cell foam on the slab, then 16mm chipboard. What I'm wondering is if one could remove the chipboard and cell foam at the drain and cut the drain level with the concrete slab, then set an angle directly. That would give a bit of extra space, the 8cm high plinth height under the cabinets plus 7cm through cell foam and chipboard. What are your spontaneous thoughts on this? Maybe you don't have to chisel at all...

 

[justusandersson]

How do you envision the drainage continuing when it reaches the concrete?

 

[oStj]

How do you imagine the drainage will continue when it reaches the concrete?

What do you mean?

I was thinking of a 90-degree bend where the drainage comes up out of the concrete, then 1.5 meters to the left with the recommended slope!

Smartline seems to have connections that you insert into the pipes, instead of externally, so you should be able to cut the drainage where it comes up flush with the concrete, right?

 

[justusandersson]

Cellplastic has more functions than just insulating. Among other things, it prevents indoor air from reaching the concrete. If you are going to proceed as you planned, it is important that you can insulate around and seal around the pipe. I don't know how that would be done in a good way and what material you could use. There are certainly others who have suggestions for this.

I think the main options are either to run the pipe above the floor in a concealed way or to make a detour outdoors.

 

[oStj]

Yes, the alternative maybe is if you run the drain into the wall behind and run it in the wall?

 

[justusandersson]

Yes, the alternative might otherwise be to route the drain through the wall behind and run it inside the wall?

That should be possible. Certainly better than breaking up the floor.