Hoping to create a balcony with a thin profile and without a bracket, I planned to use steel attached to the floor joist. When steel goes from outside to inside, condensation problems arise, and I imagine the solution is some type of treatment for the steel on the part that is inside.

Anyone with experience in the above who can direct me to the right method and product or point out how wrong I am thinking? :)
 
That is a risk construction with regard to moisture. If you absolutely have to let a continuous steel structure go through the building envelope, it must be insulated. Is there no other way to solve it?
 
Exactly. It is a risk construction without risk-limited measures such as some type of insulating and surface-altering treatment that I would imagine exists out there. It can of course be solved in another way but I don't want to since it would compromise the end result.
 
In stone constructions, the balcony slab is insulated from all directions. I guess you mean a wooden construction. Cover the steel beams with Armaflex AF. There are sheets and mats available for use. Then enclose the supporting elements with a material of your choice, such as metal or wood.
 
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Of course! The same material that my plumber used for the hoses for the geothermal heating... with exactly the same purpose. I initially thought that the 10-meter-long main beam would stick out, but then I would need (?) to insulate the entire 7-8 meter long inner part with what I assume is a reasonably expensive material.

Do you have an indicative price for those mats?

Is it not an option to only rust-proof and paint the beams externally? My thought was to only have wooden decking on top of the beams.
 
Personally, I would have painted with rust protection paint, possibly sprayed with cold galvanization. Then apply black Armaflex, and build in the beams (the end that is outdoors) in neat boxes. The boxes can be attached to the decking, which becomes the surface layer of the actual balcony.

Indicative price for Armaflex AF 19 mm mats is a bit over a hundred excluding VAT per m2. As with all material, it depends on who you are, who you buy from, how much you purchase, etc. Armaflex is quite a niche product, and prices vary widely.
 
My assumption has been that it's the inner part of the beams that need to be insulated, not the outer parts. Wrong assumption?
 
Mistake, yes, but mostly in the sense that you choose a risky construction when there are real products for balcony attachment without thermal bridges. Halfen-Deha among others surely has something that fits so you don't have to reinvent the wheel.
 
And träbalk isn't an option?
 
Without any deeper analysis of the risk of rust damage to the steel beam, these always occur at the joint outside/inside.
The part of the beam that is outdoors should naturally be maintained like everything else. Zinc chromate primer is what is used as a base for painting on iron, but it can be difficult for private individuals to obtain, though those who sell boat paint might have some type of suitable paint.
 
@Locke: Halfen-Deha I have looked at before and the only thing I find is fastenings for concrete balconies.

@JOW: Wood beam is an option but a worse one. I don't like compromises. When I've exhausted the possibilities of using steel, it might come to be pressure-treated, but I'm not there yet.
 
ewjobe said:
My assumption has been that it is the inner part of the beams that needs insulation, not the outer parts. Faulty thinking?
Your assumption is correct, but why expose the beam to condensation (also the beam end outdoors) when you can cover it with Armaflex AF? Why philosophize about which rust-proof paint is the best of the best? Why should penny-wise be pound-foolish?
 
isolde said:
Why should thrift deceive wisdom?
It's not about the expense. I want the thinnest possible profile on the balcony. The last thing I want is boxes around the steel beams, then I might as well go with pressure-treated wood as the decking for the balcony.
 
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