We are going to have three small steps in the living room. Or maybe not so much a staircase, it's more like a step or platform. The attached image illustrates roughly how it is intended to look. We are thinking of granite steps and the riser plastered, similar to some house facades. The question is how should I build the step(s)? Should I cast it, or should I build a wooden frame, with masonite under the plaster? If I cast the steps, where should I place it? On the parquet it might be too heavy and prevent the floor from moving. On the subfloor, it avoids that, but then it might be difficult to connect the parquet nicely. Directly on the concrete slab unburdens the leveling floor, but I still have the same problem of connecting the overlay floor nicely to the steps.
Ideas?
Ideas?
I would probably have poured against the spåne underneath with some kind of mold, then pull the floor tight against it and add a small strip to cover the actual gap.
Don't forget to moisture-proof the spåne with plastic or similar; otherwise, it will almost certainly swell. This protection can be removed once the concrete has cured.
Alternatively, maybe some kind of luxskiva or similar and plaster on?
Don't forget to moisture-proof the spåne with plastic or similar; otherwise, it will almost certainly swell. This protection can be removed once the concrete has cured.
Alternatively, maybe some kind of luxskiva or similar and plaster on?
If you want the staircase to feel stable and uniform without any wobbling when you walk on it (which I assume you do), it needs to rest directly on the concrete slab.
Cut an inspection hole through the parquet flooring, chipboard, all the way down to the concrete slab. Measure how high, wide, and deep the concrete foundation needs to be. Create a form for your step foundation and pour the concrete. You can replace part of the concrete with foam to reduce the weight. Carry the foundation piece in and place it on the parquet floor, tracing its outline + plaster and +5 mm gap. Cut out all layers down to the slab and place the foundation. It's advantageous if you cast lifting eyes that can be removed once the foundation is in place. The gap between the concrete and parquet should be plastered and then sealed with latex caulk colored to match the parquet—brown, I guess. Then you just need to lay the granite— or arrange the steps in whichever order you prefer. The foundation (concrete) will weigh 2.3 kg/liter, so be prepared; you might need to call Magnus Samuelsson to help carry it into place if you’re not allowed to cast it in the living room.
Personally, I wouldn't be allowed to mess around with concrete indoors—no matter how much I cover up.
Cut an inspection hole through the parquet flooring, chipboard, all the way down to the concrete slab. Measure how high, wide, and deep the concrete foundation needs to be. Create a form for your step foundation and pour the concrete. You can replace part of the concrete with foam to reduce the weight. Carry the foundation piece in and place it on the parquet floor, tracing its outline + plaster and +5 mm gap. Cut out all layers down to the slab and place the foundation. It's advantageous if you cast lifting eyes that can be removed once the foundation is in place. The gap between the concrete and parquet should be plastered and then sealed with latex caulk colored to match the parquet—brown, I guess. Then you just need to lay the granite— or arrange the steps in whichever order you prefer. The foundation (concrete) will weigh 2.3 kg/liter, so be prepared; you might need to call Magnus Samuelsson to help carry it into place if you’re not allowed to cast it in the living room.
Personally, I wouldn't be allowed to mess around with concrete indoors—no matter how much I cover up.