Cheating or okay to frame like this?

[Pligg85]

Building a machine hall where I have standing studs at cc60. Insulated and plastic-covered.

I'm going to install horizontal battens 28x70mm at cc30 and mount horizontal OSB 60x250cm (all edges tongue and groove ergo) and then finish with standing drywall.

It's tempting to run the battens continuously and not splice at a stud. Since they are set so closely at cc30 and won't make general joints, plus screw the OSB closely.

Initially, I had thought of splicing at the studs at 60-120-180-240cm and maybe continuous splicing on those at 0-30-90-150-210-270-300 that straddle the same sheet.

But now, having started a bit, it seems sufficient to splice continuously.

Not that it's extremely time-consuming, but I dislike splicing on standing 45mm studs. Even if you keep the screw away from the edge and angle it a bit, it's easy for cracks in the end grain to appear anyway.

Screwing with 4.5x60 wood screws. I don't want a head that's too small, so no deck screws, even though I know many use them and they handle cracks at the ends better.

Thoughts?

 

[fribygg]

Not considered using a nail gun for the glesen?

 

[Pligg85]

Haven't thought about using a nail gun for the studs?

No. The impact driver works better with the screws 😉

 

[wildeside]

If you haven't bought slatted paneling yet, you might as well buy end-spliced slatted paneling, then it's no problem to install it continuously, just offset the joints.

 

[Pligg85]

If you haven't bought sparse paneling yet, you might as well buy end-grooved sparse paneling, then there are no problems with installing it continuously, just offset the joints.

I can somewhat understand grooved sparse in the ceiling, but grooved sparse on the wall probably makes minimal difference. There is actually a poor selection of grooved sparse.

In my opinion, they will be effectively locked by the OSB, which in turn is grooved, so the substrate for the plasterboard can't be anything but smooth.

 

[wildeside]

I can somewhat understand tongue-and-groove battens in the ceiling, but tongue-and-groove battens on the wall probably won't make much of a difference. There's actually a poor supply of tongue-and-groove battens.

In my opinion, they will be securely fixed by the OSB board, which in turn is tongue-and-groove, so the substrate for the gypsum can't help but be smooth.

I don't think there will be any problems with non-tongue-and-groove, but I can't say either good or bad because I don't have experience with non-tongue-and-groove. We always buy end-matched battens, and here there's not a poor supply.

 

[RiKr]

Isn't it enough with spacing at cc600 in the walls? Since there will still be wooden boards behind.