Can't find studs in the walls, tried stud finder and magnet. Is there a solution?
Diversearbetare
· Göteborg
· 10 703 posts
Agree with Biggie. It looks more like it might be aerated concrete and plaster. However, you should use aerated concrete plugs with coarser ribs. The smooth plugs like the blue (brown, green, red) don't grip properly. Applies to tensile force.
Thank you so much!
I googled tensile strength and aerated concrete and found this plug: https://www.gunnebofastening.se/produkt/?product_id=752&family_slug=expander-och-plugg The 10 mm variant has a tensile force of 30 kg in aerated concrete. If I have two in each bracket and four in the stud on the wall, I have a total of 240 kg in tensile force. That is, four times the weight of the roof. Then the cross bar will be tight between the walls so there will be no tensile force in the direction of the plug but only straight down which should help. The stud on the wall will have some outward tensile force but at the same time, the stud is in the middle of the room as a stop. That is, it should mostly be forces downwards.
Feels much better now! Now it's just a matter of confirming that it's aerated concrete. Or have we confirmed that? I'm thinking about how I could hammer the wood screw into the wall, can you do that with aerated concrete?
Do you think I should go with this or is it a good idea to get a carpenter to check the wall on site to be sure? I don't want it to be wrong and for it to collapse. Or are we sure it's aerated concrete?
/Jens
I googled tensile strength and aerated concrete and found this plug: https://www.gunnebofastening.se/produkt/?product_id=752&family_slug=expander-och-plugg The 10 mm variant has a tensile force of 30 kg in aerated concrete. If I have two in each bracket and four in the stud on the wall, I have a total of 240 kg in tensile force. That is, four times the weight of the roof. Then the cross bar will be tight between the walls so there will be no tensile force in the direction of the plug but only straight down which should help. The stud on the wall will have some outward tensile force but at the same time, the stud is in the middle of the room as a stop. That is, it should mostly be forces downwards.
Feels much better now! Now it's just a matter of confirming that it's aerated concrete. Or have we confirmed that? I'm thinking about how I could hammer the wood screw into the wall, can you do that with aerated concrete?
Do you think I should go with this or is it a good idea to get a carpenter to check the wall on site to be sure? I don't want it to be wrong and for it to collapse. Or are we sure it's aerated concrete?
/Jens
Yes, that may be the case, but I'm unsure how stable it should feel for it to be okay. I'm a bit scared to set up this ceiling because I suspect the consequences may be significant if it were to fall down. (Fatal outcome?) I want to be 100% sure that it will hold. That is, to have a large safety margin.
So I have a few more questions.
If there's aerated concrete in the wall, is it on the outermost layer? Nearest to the wallpaper? Or could it be that there's another material on top of the aerated concrete? Because it feels like there's a very porous material on the outermost layer. How are aerated concrete walls typically constructed?
When you say aerated concrete and plaster, is the plaster the actual outside? That is, the outside of the house? Or could it be that the plaster is closest to the wallpaper?
When we talk about walls inside the apartment versus walls that are on the outside, is there a difference in the construction of these walls? Because one of the walls I need to secure to is an interior wall around 10-11 cm thick. Should I think differently about the anchoring there?
/Jens
P.S. It feels like we're getting close to the start of construction here; I just need to make sure that my approach is safe so I can be there without the fear of having a 60 kg ceiling fall on my head.
So I have a few more questions.
If there's aerated concrete in the wall, is it on the outermost layer? Nearest to the wallpaper? Or could it be that there's another material on top of the aerated concrete? Because it feels like there's a very porous material on the outermost layer. How are aerated concrete walls typically constructed?
When you say aerated concrete and plaster, is the plaster the actual outside? That is, the outside of the house? Or could it be that the plaster is closest to the wallpaper?
When we talk about walls inside the apartment versus walls that are on the outside, is there a difference in the construction of these walls? Because one of the walls I need to secure to is an interior wall around 10-11 cm thick. Should I think differently about the anchoring there?
/Jens
P.S. It feels like we're getting close to the start of construction here; I just need to make sure that my approach is safe so I can be there without the fear of having a 60 kg ceiling fall on my head.
What I really wonder is if it is porous at the outermost part near the wallpaper, is it aerated concrete then? Or could it be something else? If it is aerated concrete, then it's just to proceed, right?
It is common to plaster lightweight concrete on the inside to create a smoother surface that can be painted or wallpapered.
Thank you for the response!
It increasingly sounds like it might be lättbetong. But what other options are there? Could it be something else? Or does it matter? Is it the case that as long as it is porous, I should use that type of plug, regardless of whether it's lättbetong, or plaster, or whatever it might be?
It increasingly sounds like it might be lättbetong. But what other options are there? Could it be something else? Or does it matter? Is it the case that as long as it is porous, I should use that type of plug, regardless of whether it's lättbetong, or plaster, or whatever it might be?
Hi! I need to put up glass wool in the ceiling, 30 cm deep. This is for acoustic treatment of my living room where I have a small music studio. The reason I have brackets on the wall is that I am not allowed to drill into the ceiling by the landlord.
I just checked the kitchen where there was a 10mm plug from the previous owner. I pulled it out, and it was a 6 cm deep drill hole. The plug was 5 cm. It looked very solid in there. Like concrete! It didn't look porous. But I know that it is. So it must be lightweight concrete.
Haha, well I guess I'll go for it. It's a bit scary though to set up such a heavy ceiling, but if I use 8 plugs that are supposed to handle 30 kg of tensile force, that makes 240 kg, four times the weight of the ceiling! Then it should hold!