Hello everyone!

I'm planning to "bring in" the eaves to nearly nonexistent on a 70s 1.5-story house. I know there are divided opinions about having eaves or not, but I have chosen to go without (if possible).

The problem to solve is that the rafter's (truss) upper and lower arms currently meet just outside the exterior walls. I want to change this by adding a wedge and screw-gluing plywood as shown in the images below.
Illustration of a roof truss with a wedge added and plywood laminated, showing modification to reduce roof eave on a 1970s house.
This is how it looks today.

Diagram showing a wooden truss joint where upper and lower arms meet, with a wedge inserted to adjust their alignment, in a roof framework scenario.
With the wedge.

A sketch of a roof truss showing rafters and a wedge addition for adjusting the soffit design without eaves on a 1.5-story 70s house.
With the wedge and screw-glued plywood.

Is it feasible? If not, how can I proceed? Let the comments flow and thanks in advance!
 
Can you draw an equally charming picture of today's appearance where the entire truss is visible?
 
J justusandersson said:
Can you draw an equally fancy picture of today's appearance where the entire truss is visible?
here come two pictures, one of how the truss looks today and one of the intended version.

Blueprint of a current roof truss design with dimensions displayed, showing a triangular structure with interior supports.
A diagram of a roof truss with measurements in meters; shows dimensions for both height and width, reflecting the current design.
 
The construction you have drawn is not stable and therefore unsuitable. Theoretically, you could extend the vertical studs in the outer wall with splice pieces and let the rafters' top chords meet them, but aren't there any wall plates in the way? Building without eaves is reckless. I can give you several examples of that.
 
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Joak and 2 others
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The wall has a top plate, it was just me being a bit lazy when I drew it. I just wanted to show where the outer wall is located in relation to the rafter.

If we disregard the disadvantages of not having an eave, can what I have in mind be carried out?
 
An honest answer: No. The hammarband is in the way. If you remove it, the wall loses stability. To solve the problem, you need to properly rebuild the trusses and essentially make a new roof.
 
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MultiMan and 2 others
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Okay, it sounds like you know your stuff, so thanks for the answer :)
 
Off Topic, but curiosity prevails: Why, why, why :thinking:
 
The reason is purely for aesthetic purposes. We want to achieve a more modern design of the house that we like.
 
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yonna
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A Agsson said:
The reason is purely aesthetic. We want to achieve a more modern design of the house that we like.
So if it's then technically inferior, with more rain on the walls and problematic roof drainage, it plays a subordinate role?
It's not really a modern design. Seems more like the 1930s and 1940s functionalist houses.

Well, I guess I'm old and stupid, not understanding the beauty of a small house without eaves :worried:
 
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tergo and 3 others
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KnockOnWood KnockOnWood said:
If it's technically worse, with more rain on the walls and problematic roof drainage, does it play a minor role then?
It's not a modern design anyway. Seems more like the 1930s and 40s functionalist houses.

Well, maybe I'm just old and dumb for not appreciating the beauty of a small house without eaves :worried:
I'm aware that it might technically be worse, but the question was if it was possible to make such an alteration to the truss.

Tastes differ, and I can find it nice with or without extended eaves, but in this case, I didn't want them.

I haven't claimed that you're old or dumb; rather, I'm grateful for those of you who take the time to respond :)

But unfortunately, it seems impossible.
 
A Agsson said:
...
But unfortunately, it seems impossible.
Thank you for not taking offense!

But I also don't understand JustusAndersson's objections to cutting down the roof overhang and reinforcing the connection between the upper frame and lower frame with glue-screwed plywood, and how the top plate comes into play. His brief technical explanation is beyond my understanding.
 
KnockOnWood KnockOnWood said:
Thank you for not taking offense!

But I also don't understand JustusAndersson's objections to cutting down the eaves and reinforcing the connection between the upper frame and lower frame with glued and screwed plywood, and how the wall plate plays into this.
His brief technical explanation goes over my head.
No, I don't understand either, but I can't claim to be well-read on the subject, so I eagerly await what JustusAndersson has to say about this :)
Fun with discussion!
 
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KnockOnWood
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A bad tip otherwise is to add insulation to the walls by about 40-50 cm, and you'll soon be out by the eaves. ;)
 
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Agsson and 1 other
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If you disregard the purely aesthetic aspect - which I find difficult to comment on since I haven't seen the house - there shouldn't be any major concerns? The cut in the eaves simply serves the function of channeling downward force from the upper frame to tension in the lower frame. However, I would have chosen a diagonal brace instead of straight plywood sheets.
 
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Agsson
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