I have built an extension that is 4.4m wide and extends 2.3m from the gable with a pitched roof. The construction consists of 170 studs which are screwed with expansion bolts into the concrete slab at 120 centers, and there are standing 170 studs all around. The interior ceiling consists of 125 studs at 60 centers and the trusses are 220 at 60 centers.
Everything is more or less assembled with metal angles at the top and bottom. The exterior is completed with asfaboard and 34x70 nail battens at 100 centers with a standing locking panel. The roof is tongue and groove.
The question is whether it holds for potential torsional forces or however you say it? I have not installed any noggings in the walls (yet at least) to avoid lots of thermal bridges... are they needed? I will also be putting 45x45 battens crosswise on the inside along with OSB+gypsum.
The slab that is poured is also cast together with 1/3 of the timber house so it will not move relative to the rest of the house.
Everything is more or less assembled with metal angles at the top and bottom. The exterior is completed with asfaboard and 34x70 nail battens at 100 centers with a standing locking panel. The roof is tongue and groove.
The question is whether it holds for potential torsional forces or however you say it? I have not installed any noggings in the walls (yet at least) to avoid lots of thermal bridges... are they needed? I will also be putting 45x45 battens crosswise on the inside along with OSB+gypsum.
The slab that is poured is also cast together with 1/3 of the timber house so it will not move relative to the rest of the house.
You should have braces, even if temporary, in the walls. Screw on anything, a plywood board will do, it should go diagonally over the wall studs.
When you're ready to put up the panel material, you can remove the braces progressively. The panels will then counteract shear movements and brace very well. Cross bracing is unnecessary and almost doesn't help at all, unless you set them diagonally, but that is unnecessary.
I see now that you have asfaboard on the outside, it might be enough, but it's perhaps not the world's most stable panel material.
When you're ready to put up the panel material, you can remove the braces progressively. The panels will then counteract shear movements and brace very well. Cross bracing is unnecessary and almost doesn't help at all, unless you set them diagonally, but that is unnecessary.
I see now that you have asfaboard on the outside, it might be enough, but it's perhaps not the world's most stable panel material.
A relative of mine had a neighbor with a garage. The garage had a small storage section added, built without a permit.
The city planning office was going to inspect, so he tore down the storage section (at 02:00 AM).
After the inspection, he started rebuilding the storage, but now more integrated with the garage, i.e., he removed the rear gable wall and extended with the storage.
Everything was ready, but he was working on the roof, most of the tiles had been moved to one side of the garage roof. A fall storm came, and in the middle of the night, the entire garage collapsed. The gable wall had been crucial for stability.
The city planning office was going to inspect, so he tore down the storage section (at 02:00 AM).
After the inspection, he started rebuilding the storage, but now more integrated with the garage, i.e., he removed the rear gable wall and extended with the storage.
Everything was ready, but he was working on the roof, most of the tiles had been moved to one side of the garage roof. A fall storm came, and in the middle of the night, the entire garage collapsed. The gable wall had been crucial for stability.
just curious about everything If you're not ready for insulation and OSB just yet, you can screw up two nail plates in a cross pattern across the entire wall. From the floor on one side to the wall/ceiling on the other, and screw these into some studs along the way. It's usually fine to insulate inside the bands and apply plastic and studs on the outside without needing to dismantle them.
If you read here:
http://hunton.sircon.net/sve/produkt.asp?id=2&view=v%E4gg
They claim in any case that asphalt board is sufficient for stiffening the walls.
http://hunton.sircon.net/sve/produkt.asp?id=2&view=v%E4gg
They claim in any case that asphalt board is sufficient for stiffening the walls.