Hi forum!
I am renovating an old log house, a new subfloor is being installed throughout the house, and the walls will be insulated with 95mm cellulose insulation on the inside.
This means I have all the possibilities to build in and prepare for everything possible.
I will run extra flex conduits in the walls between each room... just because... but what more can I prepare for already now? Thinking about, for example, smart home gadgets, etc.
Bombard me with ideas!
I am renovating an old log house, a new subfloor is being installed throughout the house, and the walls will be insulated with 95mm cellulose insulation on the inside.
This means I have all the possibilities to build in and prepare for everything possible.
I will run extra flex conduits in the walls between each room... just because... but what more can I prepare for already now? Thinking about, for example, smart home gadgets, etc.
Bombard me with ideas!
Exhaust from central vacuum through the foundation wall. To avoid having it in the middle of an exterior wall.
Fresh air duct to the stove/fireplace.
Pipes to connect a water-jacketed stove.
Prepare for water, sewage, heating, and electricity for a possible extension.
Water/glycol-based ground heating outside the entrance.
The list could be long, but these are some things I've thought about or fixed.
Fresh air duct to the stove/fireplace.
Pipes to connect a water-jacketed stove.
Prepare for water, sewage, heating, and electricity for a possible extension.
Water/glycol-based ground heating outside the entrance.
The list could be long, but these are some things I've thought about or fixed.
With 10 cm of additional insulation on the inside, there is a very high risk of getting condensation on the inside of the timber. Warm, humid air travels outward through the porous insulation and condenses when it meets the cold and relatively dense log wall. Cellulose insulation has the ability to transport away some moisture, but I'm afraid the ability is not sufficient. I would not dare to add that much on the inside anyway. If you add insulation on the outside instead and use a wood fiber-based wind protection board (not wind protection gypsum), moisture migration works better, and the moisture does not encounter such cold, dense surfaces on its way out.
As for electronics, I think it's a good idea to install a few extra conduits if you want to move the computer or TV, but in principle, I think those "smart" electronic devices are a waste of money. Rural electricity is as it is...... voltage drops and power outages and constant rapid re-connections...... and most "smart" devices tend to malfunction under such conditions. The simpler system you have, the fewer parts there are that can malfunction, and the greater part of your time you can spend on more pleasant things than chasing electronic faults.
As for electronics, I think it's a good idea to install a few extra conduits if you want to move the computer or TV, but in principle, I think those "smart" electronic devices are a waste of money. Rural electricity is as it is...... voltage drops and power outages and constant rapid re-connections...... and most "smart" devices tend to malfunction under such conditions. The simpler system you have, the fewer parts there are that can malfunction, and the greater part of your time you can spend on more pleasant things than chasing electronic faults.
Regarding the so-called dew point, it has been discussed and debated many times, but we have concluded that the difference is negligible; sure, we move it inward, but it has always been within the timber and will remain there. Additionally, it's likely that there will be another 10cm of cellulose on the outside shortly. So, we're not worried about that.
As for the power grid here, our network is exemplary, Jämtkraft. I have never seen a better-maintained network, and I have worked with maintenance of power lines myself. In the over 4 years I've lived with Jämtkraft, we've had just 1 disruption, despite storms, etc. Some "smart" gadgets we will probably install as soon as we move in, but we're not going to go overboard and turn our house into a spaceship. We want things that make everyday life easier, and we are completely uninterested in gaining points at dinner parties. Controlling engine heaters, outdoor lighting, and possibly alarms are things we've considered interesting so far.
Thanks for the feedback anyway
As for the power grid here, our network is exemplary, Jämtkraft. I have never seen a better-maintained network, and I have worked with maintenance of power lines myself. In the over 4 years I've lived with Jämtkraft, we've had just 1 disruption, despite storms, etc. Some "smart" gadgets we will probably install as soon as we move in, but we're not going to go overboard and turn our house into a spaceship. We want things that make everyday life easier, and we are completely uninterested in gaining points at dinner parties. Controlling engine heaters, outdoor lighting, and possibly alarms are things we've considered interesting so far.
Thanks for the feedback anyway
Just have to ask why you want 95 + timber + possibly 95 more with insulation in the walls?
I myself have an old timber frame which I have additionally insulated two exterior walls with 45mm externally, the rest of the exterior walls/gables I have just put a windproof fabric on and I am completely satisfied with this. The house doesn't feel cold or drafty and the energy consumption for heating is only 2500kWh/year for the ground source heat pump and 2-3m3 of wood for the fireplace. There is often not much energy to save by insulating the walls of old timber houses, the most important thing is that it's wind tight.
How thick is your timber?
My walls are about 17cm thick.
I myself have an old timber frame which I have additionally insulated two exterior walls with 45mm externally, the rest of the exterior walls/gables I have just put a windproof fabric on and I am completely satisfied with this. The house doesn't feel cold or drafty and the energy consumption for heating is only 2500kWh/year for the ground source heat pump and 2-3m3 of wood for the fireplace. There is often not much energy to save by insulating the walls of old timber houses, the most important thing is that it's wind tight.
How thick is your timber?
My walls are about 17cm thick.
The reason we're insulating the inside is partly for warmth and partly to conceal certain installations, plus it gives us the opportunity to straighten out some skewness that has developed since 1888. It will be 95mm because the cost is only 30% higher than for 45mm.
If we find the house cold, we will insulate the outside when we refurbish the facade later. It might not be necessary, and the savings in heating may be small, but comfort takes precedence and without plastic, you can't insulate too much
We have approximately 16cm timmer. And yes, we're well-informed and know that the most important thing is to keep it draft-free.
If we find the house cold, we will insulate the outside when we refurbish the facade later. It might not be necessary, and the savings in heating may be small, but comfort takes precedence and without plastic, you can't insulate too much
We have approximately 16cm timmer. And yes, we're well-informed and know that the most important thing is to keep it draft-free.