8,142 views ·
33 replies
8k views
33 replies
Build on/expand chimney
How wide is the chimney breast? The widest Minerit board is probably 120cm.
With the right Minerit board, I don't think you need to plaster outside of it since they come with texture.
How will you extend the board far enough to cover the beam? Perhaps it might be easiest to build up on the outer edge of the chimney breast and attach the board with cement-based "glue"/fix.
If the flue pipe is to connect to the chimney breast in the existing hole, have you checked with the Chimney Master that it's okay to have a steel beam (heat-conductive material) so close?
How will you solve the connection of the flue pipe (sealing) if there's a bit of empty space between the Minerit board and the chimney breast? I can imagine they would want it built up there so you don't have an "empty space" between the board and the chimney breast.
With the right Minerit board, I don't think you need to plaster outside of it since they come with texture.
How will you extend the board far enough to cover the beam? Perhaps it might be easiest to build up on the outer edge of the chimney breast and attach the board with cement-based "glue"/fix.
If the flue pipe is to connect to the chimney breast in the existing hole, have you checked with the Chimney Master that it's okay to have a steel beam (heat-conductive material) so close?
How will you solve the connection of the flue pipe (sealing) if there's a bit of empty space between the Minerit board and the chimney breast? I can imagine they would want it built up there so you don't have an "empty space" between the board and the chimney breast.
The panel would be about 110 cm wide. I will have to frame behind the panel; we'll see whether it's with steel or wood. Of course, steel should be closest to the flue, but you should be able to have standing wooden studs at the edge of the panel. Not against the chimney, someone might say, sure. But 50 cm from the flue, the wall isn't so warm that it could cause any issues. The house is nearly 100 years old. There has been wood right up against the chimney in places for just as long, and nothing has happened so far...
Having a gap between the fiber cement panel and the chimney shouldn't be a problem as there's nothing combustible there. The only concern would be if the beam absorbs a little heat. If one is worried about that, you can insulate the pipe between the panel and the chimney.
Having a gap between the fiber cement panel and the chimney shouldn't be a problem as there's nothing combustible there. The only concern would be if the beam absorbs a little heat. If one is worried about that, you can insulate the pipe between the panel and the chimney.
I would advise you to have a discussion with the chimney sweep in the municipality. The views on and regulations regarding wood against chimneys have changed over the last 50 years.A.Holm said:
I believe there is a rule of 10 cm distance + ventilation holes, but check with the experts to be safe.
Sure, but it feels like in many cases it's both belt, suspenders, and Karlssons klister before they approve things...
For example, how can a purchased modular chimney with rf 0.6mm thickness on the flue pipe, 50mm insulation, and an additional 0.6 sheet metal be approved when you yourself have to build with 4mm black steel, double 30mm insulation, 10cm air gap, and then minerit to get it approved?
It sounds off to me...
For example, how can a purchased modular chimney with rf 0.6mm thickness on the flue pipe, 50mm insulation, and an additional 0.6 sheet metal be approved when you yourself have to build with 4mm black steel, double 30mm insulation, 10cm air gap, and then minerit to get it approved?
It sounds off to me...
I imagine, without being completely sure, that these ready-made modules are tested, trialed, and approved by an independent testing institute. Additionally, there are precise rules/instructions on how they should be installed concerning surrounding wooden joists, etc.A.Holm said:For example, how can a purchased modular chimney with rf 0.6mm thickness on the flue, 50mm insulation, and an additional 0.6 metal sheet be approved when you have to build yourself with 4mm black steel, double 30mm insulation, 10cm air gap, and then minerit to get it approved?
It doesn't sit well with me...
A "DIY build," I fully understand, should have greater requirements because there is generally not complete documentation on materials, execution, and heat/fire tests that a "store-bought product" has.
Spoke to the chimney sweep master now...
He thought it was completely fine with the steel beam.
But I asked them to come and check the chimney, they will perform a pressure test and also check that it's approved considering the flammable materials nearby.
So on Thursday we'll see...
He thought it was completely fine with the steel beam.
But I asked them to come and check the chimney, they will perform a pressure test and also check that it's approved considering the flammable materials nearby.
So on Thursday we'll see...
Received the verdict now.
There was a bit of extra work. I need to glide cast the pipe as it was leaking a bit too much.
Then I need to shift a roof truss that is too close to the pipe in the attic floor...
Otherwise, it was calm.
I will insulate the flue in the space between the chimney and the board behind the stove.
Having standing studs at the outer edge of the board was not seen as a problem...
There was a bit of extra work. I need to glide cast the pipe as it was leaking a bit too much.
Then I need to shift a roof truss that is too close to the pipe in the attic floor...
Otherwise, it was calm.
I will insulate the flue in the space between the chimney and the board behind the stove.
Having standing studs at the outer edge of the board was not seen as a problem...
You have very accommodating authorities.
I asked if it was okay to replace an existing Hugo environment wood-burning stove with a pellet stove. It was, provided that I built a 10 cm thick wall in front of today's existing wall (which presumably consists of wooden studs and gypsum board). NOTE No sheet materials were acceptable, unless a heat protection plate on spacers from the wall between the stove and the wall was also used.
I asked if it was okay to replace an existing Hugo environment wood-burning stove with a pellet stove. It was, provided that I built a 10 cm thick wall in front of today's existing wall (which presumably consists of wooden studs and gypsum board). NOTE No sheet materials were acceptable, unless a heat protection plate on spacers from the wall between the stove and the wall was also used.
Yes, what do you think now afterwards? Was it good to have the expertise there to discuss on site and clarify the extent, so it doesn't come as an unpleasant surprise later?A.Holm said:Got the verdict now. It took a bit of extra work. I need to line the chimney since it was leaking a bit too much. Then I need to adjust a rafter that's too close to the chimney in the ceiling on the attic...
Otherwise, it was calm. I will insulate the chimney flue in the space between the flue and the panel behind the stove. Having vertical studs at the edge of the panel was not seen as a problem...
Well, it's probably good to have a dialogue with them.
And it was probably good to know that the pipe needs fixing; it would be annoying to have to do it when everything is ready and you want to light it up for the first time...
I thought it would be good as I think it looks really nice.
But it does cost me an extra penny.
Oldboy.
Sounds strange.
What is the minimum distance to combustible materials at the back according to the stove manufacturer?
And it was probably good to know that the pipe needs fixing; it would be annoying to have to do it when everything is ready and you want to light it up for the first time...
I thought it would be good as I think it looks really nice.
But it does cost me an extra penny.
Oldboy.
Sounds strange.
What is the minimum distance to combustible materials at the back according to the stove manufacturer?
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Came across even more work...
I'm going to draw the pipe today, but I thought yesterday it would be fun to see what it looks like beforehand. So, I rigged a GoPro camera along with a small flashlight that I then lowered down the chimney. Found something about 5 meters down:

Above this, there was a smaller stone tilted sideways:

Had to make a small hole just above the floor on the upper floor to remove these two.
Plan to seal the holes and draw the pipe later today.
I find it strange that the chimney sweep didn't mention these stones when he checked the pipe with his camera. He should have seen them, shouldn't he?
I'm going to draw the pipe today, but I thought yesterday it would be fun to see what it looks like beforehand. So, I rigged a GoPro camera along with a small flashlight that I then lowered down the chimney. Found something about 5 meters down:
Above this, there was a smaller stone tilted sideways:
Had to make a small hole just above the floor on the upper floor to remove these two.
Plan to seal the holes and draw the pipe later today.
I find it strange that the chimney sweep didn't mention these stones when he checked the pipe with his camera. He should have seen them, shouldn't he?