I am preparing a place for a Tulikivi soapstone stove.
A foundation next to the chimney core has now been cast.

An I-beam stands against the chimney that I have installed to support a load-bearing wall.
I plan to plaster the chimney behind the Tulikivi.
The plastered part is intended to be about 1m wide, slightly wider than the foundation.
The rest of the brick wall to the right will be covered with boards.

What I am considering and would like opinions on is:
I want to conceal the I-beam by enclosing it in the wall.
The beam protrudes about 6-7cm from the chimney.
Plastering that thickness is not feasible, so I will have to use bricks.
I was thinking of placing the bricks with the edge downwards, they are about 6cm thick and would therefore fit well.
The question is whether they should be attached in some way to the chimney, e.g. with screws and plugs.
Or should one rely on the mortar to hold?
Should one choose solid bricks or bricks with holes?
It feels like those with holes have an easier time adhering to the mortar.
But do the holes complicate things when it comes to plastering later, or does it make it easier to get it to adhere?

Attaching a picture of how it looks...
1img-3188.JPG
 
M
You could "glue" 5 cm lecaskivor with mortar or maybe even tile adhesive and then plaster.
 
I believe solid brick is better than hollow/LECA. Do not use plugs for anchoring but rather "cut nails" or similar that can be driven into some of the joints. The problem is the steel beam which will move and cause cracks if you build directly against it or just plaster over it. It might be better to enclose it "loosely" with bricks on the outside as well, or place the roof beam directly on what you are building, although this sets high demands on the wall's strength and using just one brick on its edge will probably not be enough.
 
There will be fun movements in that beam when it's heated by the stove :S.
 
Hmm... Maybe not so simple this...

Removing the beam and bricklaying underneath doesn't seem right. I considered chiseling into the existing chimney a bit and letting the lintel go in, but since the flue is close, I didn't dare do it.

You probably have a point that the beam will move, so it should probably go freely and not be fixed in the mortar or bricks.
What should be done then?
I don't have space to set a course of stones outside the beam.
Build a box with plywood around the beam, add some mesh, and plaster?
Could you glue cardboard/cardboard against the beam, mesh, and then plaster over?
You don't need many mm of movement for it to work, and the cardboard can handle that...

A last resort is to build with boards even behind the stove, but I think it's nice with a neat chimney, while it also adds a bit of heat...
 
No combustible materials against/in the chimney or close behind the stove!
Steel studs and fiber cement board, optionally plaster the board afterwards if you want a different texture?
 
Does the plaster adhere well to the mineral board?
Plaster directly onto the board or apply a mesh first?
 
Haven't tried it myself, maybe someone else can answer that. They do have, in any case, a structure that should be suitable for it. But when I think about it now, I realize that you shouldn't have a stålregel behind them either, but rather attach them to some masonry background to avoid the movements.... :rolleyes:
 
Build up with some clearance on both sides of the beam, then place a minerit board as a "bridge" past the beam, then plaster over everything. That's the thought process now...
 
M
orparn said:
I think solid brick is better than perforated/leka.
Why?
 
The holes would unnecessarily consume a lot of plaster during the rendering.
 
My suggestion; Cover the beam with plasterboard. This is "dead" material and doesn't move while also providing fire protection for the beam. (Possibly mesh) the plasterboard and apply tile adhesive with a coarse toothed spatula (maybe a 6 mm tooth for the adhesive).

On this surface, you can then finish with regular cement plaster.:cool:
 
M
orparn said:
The holes would unnecessarily consume a lot of mortar during plastering.
I would say it's more or less negligible, however, the plaster adheres better to the leca and the leca adheres better in the "gluing" if you choose that tactic. "Bridging past the beam" with minerit is what I believe if the beam becomes "free", and then perhaps apply gypsum plaster on everything if you want to keep it simple.
 
How big is the oven?
How much does it cover the steel beam?

I guess that the steel beam will barely be visible at all. Why not just leave it and paint it?
The steel beam is quite "rough" and works well with a plastered wall, in my opinion.
 
Oldboy said:
How big is the oven?
How much does it cover of the steel beam?

I guess that the steel beam will hardly be visible at all. Why not leave it and just paint it?
The steel beam is quite "rough" and works well with a plastered wall, in my opinion.
The oven is about 1200mm high.
Initially thought about having the beam visible and painting it.
But it's not possible to make it symmetrical in a good way.
Maybe I'm fussy, but I don't think it will look good.

Right now, I'm leaning towards putting a Minerit board and not building anything at all.
Then maybe you can apply gypsum plaster to get the appearance of a plastered surface.
It would also take significantly less time to do it this way.
 
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