harry73 said:
Mine are 60 cm wide
But the "innermost" door must be attached to the floor or ceiling? It becomes a bit more complicated to get in then. If you only open one door, 50 cm becomes a bit narrow (at least with my body build :))
 
harry73
With 60, I can just get the lawnmower in, but I like to open both anyway. And when we're out in the garden, the door is often ajar anyway.
 
harry73
It can also be made asymmetric. One door 65 cm and the other 35.
 
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Lexington
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harry73 said:
[image]
How long are the hinges on your doors?

I was thinking of attaching the hinges to the frame itself and the panel on the outside, will it work or will the door panel hit the storage panel when open? It will also be difficult to attach the hinges directly to the panel as it is sloped.
 
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harry73
They are 30cm, according to the assembly instructions they are too short (should be at least half the door width) but I thought it looked better that way
there is no problem having paneling on the hinges.
on the left pair doors, you see that I have a cover strip on the door edge, over the gap. It is attached to the door, and there is no problem opening the door.
 
Well, the facing board does come a bit onto the door, so it's not in the way, and otherwise your hinges are outside the panel. But if you have all the paneling outside the hinges, won't it clash according to the picture when the doors are opened?

Red wooden door with outer hinges and slatted panels. Black arrows point towards the door's center, highlighting potential hinge interference.

Maybe mitre those parts 45 degrees?

Edit:
Takes a while to sink in, but now I get what you mean, there shouldn't be a problem :)
 
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Ankieya
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harry73
I haven't installed your cover battens everywhere yet, because then the storeroom would be finished, but you see that there are 4 doors in total?
The double doors on the left have cover battens over the door gap and it works perfectly fine.
 
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Lexington
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When the penny dropped, I understood what you meant :)
 
harry73
You can choose where to screw the bracket into the door frame. That becomes the rotation point, and the farther it is from the door, the less the edges will touch each other.

But your problem will rather be to mount the bracket on the frame so that the panel on the door is level with the panel on the walls. Because the bracket should also be mounted under the panel, but then it becomes difficult to hang the door.
 
I thought I would build the frame for the door, attach the hinges, and hang the door, then panel the storage and the door. That should work and then it will be level!
 
Here's how it turned out in the end
Door:
A simple outdoor storage structure with wooden frame and corrugated roof, containing a grill, wheelbarrow, and gardening tools, beside a green bin.

And dressed:
A black wooden shed in a garden, surrounded by trees and greenery, with a clear blue sky in the background.
 
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Stepside88 and 5 others
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There we go!

And everything works to satisfaction?
 
Works brilliantly :)
But I photographed from a distance just to be safe!
 
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Oldboy
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harry73 harry73 said:
Double doors? Then the load will be less
[image][image]
I'm hijacking an old thread - sorry
This looks good. We have an old house on our plot 4x4 m and I want to make double doors so you can open up to the sun - plan to use it as a kind of conservatory. I'd like a fairly large opening. What do you think about making these 1 m each? Is there any way to add some insulation so perhaps we can have overnight guests?
 
It is possible, but if the doors need to be insulated, the requirements change entirely. It is much harder to make good doors that don't warp, for example. And the bigger the doors, the more challenging it becomes in principle.
 
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