Brick facade - against wooden frame. How?

[Sebkarlbjork]

Hello,
I am planning to build a 25sqm house with a brick facade and want to maximize every extra cm inside, as the house will primarily be used as a home theater and partly as a guest house - what is the recommendation for insulation and air gap between the facade and wooden studs, if the house is to have wood as the frame? For example, 45x95mm studs. (or just brick as the frame?)

Example 1. Approximately 211mm. 3.5x5.5m inside. Sufficient insulation?

Example 2. 525mm. 3x5m inside. Many layers of insulation. Overkill?

 

[Rickard.]

Don't really understand the problem, it's entirely up to you how thick insulation you want to use. Of course, Isover will use a lot in their "suggestions."

The important thing is to have an air gap and ensure that the water in the air gap can exit at the bottom.

Or are you wondering how thick you should build? Then it's good to know where in the country you are located.

 

[Sebkarlbjork]

I don't quite understand the problem, it's completely up to you how thick insulation you want to put in. Of course, isover will use a lot in their "proposals".

The important thing is to have an air gap and make sure that the water in the air gap can get out at the bottom.

Well then. Better to ask than to go the isover way

Originally I was going to use 290mm concrete blocks and with internal insulation, I would have had a 400mm depth. But I'm now considering bricks instead to increase the internal size plus it's more attractive and durable. It will be 290mm deep, so the gain is 4x100mm.

 

[Rabbithole]

If you want a thinner wall, one way is to choose a higher-quality insulation, like PIR instead of mineral wool. The same goes for facade brick.

 

[justusandersson]

You should start with the functional requirements. Should the house be constantly heated to room temperature? Where in the country is it located? Once you know the amount of insulation needed, you can start looking at different solutions.

 

[Sebkarlbjork]

You should start with the functional requirements. Should the house be constantly heated to room temperature? Where in the country is it located? Once you know the necessary amount of insulation, you can start looking at different solutions.

There will be underfloor heating in the ground slab, but it doesn't need to be room temperature year-round, more like an extra playhouse/guest house on an existing site. The main building is a vacation home. It will be built in Söderbärke outside Fagersta. The house will primarily be used only in the summer.

 

[justusandersson]

That type of building, sporadically heated, does not need more than a maximum of 95 mm mineral wool or equivalent. If you want an exterior wall with façade brick, a 70 mm insulated stud frame inside the brick is sufficient.

 

[Rabbithole]

Is it really such a good idea to have waterborne underfloor heating if it is not meant to be constantly heated?

 

[Thomas_Blekinge]

The brick wall can be halvtegel which is only 45 mm.

 

[Thomas_Blekinge]

With sporadic use, actual direct-acting electricity (wall-mounted elements) is a good option: low investment, sporadic use provides moderate operating costs.

 

[Sebkarlbjork]

That type of building, sporadically heated, does not need more than a maximum of 95 mm of mineral wool or equivalent. If you want an exterior wall with facing brick, a 70 mm insulated stud frame inside the brick is sufficient.

But is 70mm enough as a frame?

 

[Rabbithole]

It depends on how large the roof that needs to be supported is.

 

[olotor]

Can't the brick wall be load-bearing?

 

[Sebkarlbjork]

It depends on how large the roof that needs to be supported is

It will be a 38-degree angle on the roof and probably with roof tiles

 

[Rabbithole]

I meant the span of the trusses, but with 25m2 it won't be that large, so 70x45 should work, but it's good to do a verification calculation. Snow zone also plays a role.