Hello! I see a lot of threads about the choice of panels, so the answer to my question might already be somewhere in the "jungle," but I can't find it, so I'm starting a new thread and hoping for some tips.

I have a kitchen in the summer house (heated in winter) that needs to be replaced. The walls are tile on drywall, so the panels will likely take a lot of damage when I remove the tiles.
I’m planning to install an IKEA kitchen, and with their hanging rails, it's easy to find studs to screw them into.
But what panels should I use? For "technical" reasons, I can't remove the current panels without having to replace the ceiling and floor, so they must stay in place.
The outermost layer will be FIBO waterproof panel.
Is one layer of drywall enough, or do you think I should use chipboard (how thick?), to fasten the FIBO panels, or a combination of OSB/drywall? Or something else?

/Kent
 
Hmmm, is there really no one who has any tips to give?
 
It's difficult to give advice when I don't quite understand your technical reasons. I would tear down the stuff that's there and build new, making sure it's vertical and at an angle (if you're building at an angle). And then I would use a layer of plyfa and a layer of plasterboard.
 
Hello

We installed a laminate countertop in our "kitchen" in the attefallshus and then used an identical countertop as a backsplash.
/B
 
In kitchens, there are no waterproofing requirements, so what you choose for the wall surface essentially doesn't matter. The main thing (in my opinion) is that the surface is wipeable, but you can do as you like. Some people even have exposed concrete walls in kitchens nowadays. If you're going to remove tiles attached to plasterboard, you should probably expect the entire plasterboard to come off, so no matter how you look at it, you'll probably need to replace the plasterboard as well. When putting up a kitchen, especially with a rail, it's very convenient if the wall is straight. If you do expose the wall with visible studs, I recommend inserting noggings between the studs where the hanging rail will be, and if you then add OSB/Plywood behind it, you'll have a very good wall where you can later mount things without needing drywall anchors. But you could easily get by with just nogging and drywalling.
 
I had cut off the plaster with a multitool and then cleaned up against the studs. Then you have the opportunity to redo any electrical work behind. Then apply new plaster and tile afterwards.
 
Click here to reply
Vi vill skicka notiser för ämnen du bevakar och händelser som berör dig.