My interior walls are 70 thick, but I've installed new doors where the door frames are 90 thick. When attaching the door trim, a gap of about 10 appears against the wall. What is the best method to fill such a gap?
(I have glued extra wooden strips on one side of the trim in one place. But that was a damn method. Firstly, it was impossible to find planed wood in the thickness I wanted. Secondly, I had to split them lengthwise to get narrow strips. Then it was cumbersome to glue, and you need a hell of a lot of quick clamps if you want to do many at once. Then there isn’t a sharp edge between the trim and the glued strip; it has to be sanded endlessly to get an "invisible" joint, which never became invisible.)
In other places where I've applied wall paneling, I've had the opposite problem. Here, it gaps against the door frame instead.
I hope there is a well-known method to make it look nice.
(I have glued extra wooden strips on one side of the trim in one place. But that was a damn method. Firstly, it was impossible to find planed wood in the thickness I wanted. Secondly, I had to split them lengthwise to get narrow strips. Then it was cumbersome to glue, and you need a hell of a lot of quick clamps if you want to do many at once. Then there isn’t a sharp edge between the trim and the glued strip; it has to be sanded endlessly to get an "invisible" joint, which never became invisible.)
In other places where I've applied wall paneling, I've had the opposite problem. Here, it gaps against the door frame instead.
I hope there is a well-known method to make it look nice.
Hello!
Trim 20 from the frame... Another tip when placing moldings between the trim and the wall is to set them with some offset against the trim because, just as you write, it's a lot of work to make the joint "disappear"
Best regards, Wasa
Trim 20 from the frame... Another tip when placing moldings between the trim and the wall is to set them with some offset against the trim because, just as you write, it's a lot of work to make the joint "disappear"
Best regards, Wasa
Buy klackfoder they have a 13mm heel, which you can turn as you like.
I have eyed these more than once. Unfortunately, as usual, I am not the one who decides at home. No, she says it should be wide turned lantfoder around windows and doors, and these do not come with klack. Sigh!Matti_75 said:
Speaking of wide foder. The light switches are so close to the door openings that the wide foder extend over them. I saw two possible solutions to this. Saw out a square in the wall, go in and move the electrical box away from the door with everything that involves such as short electrical runs, etc., or saw out the foder to fit around the light switch. I chose the latter. Ugly as hell! Not to mention the places I have to build onto the foder because the door frames are wider, where the light switches are quite a bit behind a cut foder.
A solution that admittedly requires a bit of extra work is that you can first install a fiberboard like this one http://www.beijerbygg.se/templates/BB_Produkt.aspx?id=43323 and then renovation plaster on top. This way, you'll come pretty close to 10 mm. The downside is, of course, that you'll have to redo the wallpaper. Alternatively, you can move the frame so it sticks out 20 mm on one side and then install renovation plaster + a regular board which builds up 19 mm.