Beadboard over drywall or demolish?

[Novisfixaren]

Want beadboard from floor to ceiling in the kitchen.

Is it worth tearing down old paneling and drywall, or just nailing new on top with some framing, for example, using unpainted panel boards?

Is there any risk of trapping moisture or anything?

How tightly should the panel be nailed? Double nails at each or single?
Thinking of a combo of PL-600 glue and nails into studs where available...

Conditions:

 

[Jonatan79]

Tear off old paneling, nail into each stud, nail into the tongue so the nails don't show, and you won't have to putty and paint and go crazy in the process

 

[Novisfixaren]

Plaster behind the old panel with ..

Afraid I mostly have vertical studs.. Make new horizontal "battens" from horizontal panel boards? How closely should these be placed in that case?

 

[Micro]

There are wall panel boards with the appearance of pärlspont, perhaps easier to install directly on the plasterboard for you.

 

[Novisfixaren]

Has a good price on B-quality spruce paneling and likes the lively feeling with brush strokes

 

[Micro]

Nothing stopping you from brushing on the wall panel boards ..
I understand what you mean .

 

[Novisfixaren]

True indeed

 

[Oldboy]

"Afraid I mostly have vertical studs.. Make new horizontal "battens" from lying panel boards? How closely must these be placed then?"

Cc 60 cm is always a good measure. It could probably work with cc 1 m as well. However, denser framework/nailing provides a more stable and better-fitting (less risk of gaps) panel. Moreover, standard beadboard paneling for indoor use is so thin (12 mm) and flimsy due to grooves on the backside that if you want to hang/attach something like a shelf on the wall, you need studs to secure it to. I would recommend 21x95 mm for reasonable strength and ample "wiggle room/imprecision" during the nailing of the paneling.