Member
· västmanland
· 34 posts
I don't even know if this is the right thread but I'll try.
I have a 1930s house where I'm a bit keen to reinstall a wood stove in the kitchen that some bungler probably threw out in the 70s.
I checked in the attic and there's a thick beam right next to, almost plastered to the chimney on the "kitchen side".
How does that align with the fact that combustible material shouldn't be near a hot chimney?
Clearly, there has been an iron stove/fireplace in the kitchen that was used for at least about 30 years?
Of course, I will consult a chimney sweep but thought I'd ask around a bit first if someone knows anything
/Johan
I have a 1930s house where I'm a bit keen to reinstall a wood stove in the kitchen that some bungler probably threw out in the 70s.
I checked in the attic and there's a thick beam right next to, almost plastered to the chimney on the "kitchen side".
How does that align with the fact that combustible material shouldn't be near a hot chimney?
Clearly, there has been an iron stove/fireplace in the kitchen that was used for at least about 30 years?
Of course, I will consult a chimney sweep but thought I'd ask around a bit first if someone knows anything
/Johan
He will probably say that you should saw it off about 10 cm from if possible.
I have exactly the same construction in our attic. I asked the chimney sweep in the municipality and he said I didn't need to touch the beam, the house was built according to different fire regulations than today's.
However, if I wanted to build something in the house, for example, an interior wall that would connect to the chimney, today's fire regulations would apply.
However, if I wanted to build something in the house, for example, an interior wall that would connect to the chimney, today's fire regulations would apply.
A little curious, what does the rule actually look like? In our house from the 1930s, the fireplace is "cantilevered" about 25 cm where the beams connect to the chimney, in the same way it looks in the attic where the roof boards connect to the chimney.
I interpret it as that the extra 25 cm is supposed to provide some form of heat reduction. But structurally, they are part of the chimney.
I interpret it as that the extra 25 cm is supposed to provide some form of heat reduction. But structurally, they are part of the chimney.
Same in our house...where the load-bearing inner wall beam is supported on the chimney...hempularen said:
Member
· västmanland
· 34 posts
Thank you all for your responses, any project will not be started before a chimney sweep is contacted
Hempularen-- right in the floor structure, the chimney deviates by about 15-20 cm and forms a "ledge" on which the beam (about 20x25 cm) rests. It is not mortared but it leans against the chimney.
Hempularen-- right in the floor structure, the chimney deviates by about 15-20 cm and forms a "ledge" on which the beam (about 20x25 cm) rests. It is not mortared but it leans against the chimney.
I can never imagine that there would be any problems, at least I hope not for my own sake... I wonder what temperature the chimney reaches if you use a connected stove?
Wondering if you know anything new about this or how it has gone for those of you who have had a floor that rests on the chimney stack?
We had the chimney sweep here yesterday, and we received the instruction that our load-bearing beams that are on the outermost layer of our chimney stack should have a gap of 10 cm from the chimney. According to this, there was no measurement specified in any standard, but what was said was that the combustible material must not reach a temperature of 85 degrees. We have installed a flexible flue liner in our chimney and insulated and sealed it to ensure that it is tight. The chimney sweep did not want to pressure test the chimney as he knew the liner kept it sealed. The problem, according to him, was that if there were cracks in the chimney stack, the heat could reach 85 degrees on the combustible material. Can one demand that such a measurement be done? Is it even possible to perform such a measurement? I can add that our house was built in 1895 and as far as I know, all timber houses of this age are built in the same way. Does anyone know what applies? Or is it just time to start planning to remove the load-bearing beams? I can also add that we are installing a new stove in the existing chimney stack. There has not been a stove there before.
We had the chimney sweep here yesterday, and we received the instruction that our load-bearing beams that are on the outermost layer of our chimney stack should have a gap of 10 cm from the chimney. According to this, there was no measurement specified in any standard, but what was said was that the combustible material must not reach a temperature of 85 degrees. We have installed a flexible flue liner in our chimney and insulated and sealed it to ensure that it is tight. The chimney sweep did not want to pressure test the chimney as he knew the liner kept it sealed. The problem, according to him, was that if there were cracks in the chimney stack, the heat could reach 85 degrees on the combustible material. Can one demand that such a measurement be done? Is it even possible to perform such a measurement? I can add that our house was built in 1895 and as far as I know, all timber houses of this age are built in the same way. Does anyone know what applies? Or is it just time to start planning to remove the load-bearing beams? I can also add that we are installing a new stove in the existing chimney stack. There has not been a stove there before.
Member
· västmanland
· 34 posts
Kan ju bara berätta vad jag gjorde. Efter diskussion med sotaren så drog jag ner en rostfri slang, diam 110 och fyllde upp med vermiculit, I och med det så brydde sig sotaren inte om varken bjälken på vinden eller andra reglar som ligger emot.
1 år sedan det blev godkänt nu och det funkar hur bra som helst, nackdelen är väl att man går miste om värmen i själva murstocken.
1 år sedan det blev godkänt nu och det funkar hur bra som helst, nackdelen är väl att man går miste om värmen i själva murstocken.
Is the hose you inserted a thin flexible hose? We have inserted a hose, pipe, and even poured in insulation as well as cast. Will try to get hold of the chimney sweep again tomorrow and try to have a dialogue.
Member
· västmanland
· 34 posts
Yep, it's a thin double-jacketed (or whatever it's called) hose, bought a whole kit from soliduct for about 5000 SEK