I am working on a small extension of the house and have therefore built up a foundation outside the existing wall. Now I have just laid the sill seal (Paroc, "foam plastic") on the foundation wall (which consists of masonry blocks) and then the sill on top.
At the lumberyard, I was advised to buy 8x90 expansion nails for fastening. So, I drilled with an 8mm drill straight through the sill and down into the top masonry block. Through the sill, there was quite a bit of resistance when I nailed, but in the masonry block, I don't think the expansion function works particularly well. I have nailed at 60cm intervals, but the sill is flexible and not particularly fixed in the vertical direction. It will, of course, stay still when the rest of the wall is in place, but the flexing bothers me.
Now that I have started laying out the floor joists that connect to the existing house sill, it's difficult to level them because I'm not really sure "where I have the new sill." Suggestions and ideas on how to proceed are gratefully received!
At the lumberyard, I was advised to buy 8x90 expansion nails for fastening. So, I drilled with an 8mm drill straight through the sill and down into the top masonry block. Through the sill, there was quite a bit of resistance when I nailed, but in the masonry block, I don't think the expansion function works particularly well. I have nailed at 60cm intervals, but the sill is flexible and not particularly fixed in the vertical direction. It will, of course, stay still when the rest of the wall is in place, but the flexing bothers me.
Now that I have started laying out the floor joists that connect to the existing house sill, it's difficult to level them because I'm not really sure "where I have the new sill." Suggestions and ideas on how to proceed are gratefully received!
Member
· Nuevo Estockholmo
· 3 529 posts
Nail with cut nails angled down through, no pre-drilling
Member
· Nuevo Estockholmo
· 3 529 posts
4" works perfectly but preferably 5" if you find it.
Drive them in at a slight angle so they bite better and resist lifting forces a bit more.
Drive them in at a slight angle so they bite better and resist lifting forces a bit more.
Member
· Nuevo Estockholmo
· 3 529 posts
Of course, one cannot know everything about everything, unfortunately.
I used threaded rod which was cut into suitable lengths and then anchored with cement mortar or alternatively metallic plastic padding in the lecablock, then screwed the sill with a nut.
Nail it at a later stage when there is some weight on the frame, then it won't spring and rattle around. Then it will hold!