I'm going to install an IKEA kitchen, and you use a hanging rail that needs to be screwed every 30 cm. Part of the wall has wooden studs (with gypsum), so that's not a problem, but a larger part needs to be attached to the chimney breast, which is brick with 2 cm plaster.
Are nylon plugs the way to go? What dimension? The bracket holes allow 6 mm, but how long should they be? And what do I do if the rail ends up in a joint? (Can't move it vertically).
And what dimension for the wooden studs?
I've drilled, plugged, and screwed things like shelf brackets, flat-screen TVs, and frame screws before, so I'm no amateur, but when it comes to this kind of thing, I want to be sure it won't fall down.
Are nylon plugs the way to go? What dimension? The bracket holes allow 6 mm, but how long should they be? And what do I do if the rail ends up in a joint? (Can't move it vertically).
And what dimension for the wooden studs?
I've drilled, plugged, and screwed things like shelf brackets, flat-screen TVs, and frame screws before, so I'm no amateur, but when it comes to this kind of thing, I want to be sure it won't fall down.
If you get the plug into the brick, it will hold as strong as a mountain. Even in the mortar between the stones.
I helped my son with a small Ikea kitchen in his apartment. The porous walls from the 1940s were impossible to plug into. The plug just started spinning in the hole no matter what I did.
The solution was anchor adhesive. Drill a hole, inject the adhesive, insert a piece of threaded rod into the hole, and a few minutes later you can screw on the rail (although I waited until the next day, didn't trust the curing times). The only difference was that there were nuts instead of screw heads.
I helped my son with a small Ikea kitchen in his apartment. The porous walls from the 1940s were impossible to plug into. The plug just started spinning in the hole no matter what I did.
The solution was anchor adhesive. Drill a hole, inject the adhesive, insert a piece of threaded rod into the hole, and a few minutes later you can screw on the rail (although I waited until the next day, didn't trust the curing times). The only difference was that there were nuts instead of screw heads.