Hello,
I have read and read but still have some questions...
I have an electric cold garage that I am going to insulate. I was thinking of 120 mm glass wool, 0.2 mm vapor barrier, OSB, and then gypsum.

Now to the questions...
1. Can I attach the vapor barrier with staples? I have nothing to clamp it with since the garage is already erected.
2. When I attach the OSB and the gypsum, I will puncture the vapor barrier, does this matter?
Thanks in advance...
 
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megason
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If you are not going to keep the garage heated year-round, then you should not have a vapor barrier, but perhaps you already know that?

You should follow the manufacturer's instructions for installation. For the plastic I bought, it was stated that using roofing nails was fine without further action, and if using staples, you should tape over each staple.

To question 2, I respond that yes, it does.
 
We always staple the plastic with staples and then test the apartments. We reach 0.11L/s per m2. The requirement for passive houses is a maximum of 0.30L/s per m2. So I think there has been a bit of hysteria around setting up the plastic. It seems like the manufacturers are trying to foist a lot of unnecessary accessories on us.
 
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mångstekta
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Hello,

I can say with 99% certainty that staples are used everywhere when it comes to the "moisture" barrier...

Then I know that some older carpenters question the moisture barrier, whether it is needed or not... Because I am quite sure that very few have seen a moisture barrier (tenotät or similar) on old houses. Some argue that you "trap" the moisture inside...

It would be fun to see a test with different alternatives... Maybe wind barrier paper instead?
 
Stick on you... compression joint = tight joint.
The sheet presses the plastic on the rule.
And there's no point in using many staples, attach just enough to hold it up, then place the sheet.
 
Mikael_L
JOW said:
Staple away... compression joint = tight joint.
The board clamps the plastic to the rule.
And there is no point in using many staples, just use enough to hold it up, then put up the board.
I don't need to write anything, JOW wrote exactly everything I believe about the matter. :)

+1 as they usually write. :cool:

Just be careful not to tear bigger holes once the plastic is stapled.
 
A clarification to my answer on question 2:

Normally when installing OSB + gypsum, one does not concern themselves with where the studs are when mounting the gypsum; it is mostly attached just to the OSB boards.

With your construction, I would advise you NOT to do so, but instead, be careful to ensure that each screw goes into a stud, even those securing the gypsum boards.
 
or even simpler. use the correct length of the gips-träskruv so you don't have to worry.
 
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kanonkula
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And the additional tip to injonil's tip:

Trim the first drywall panel to a width of 60cm, so you avoid having to joint internal corners and you get overlapping panels.
 
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boper1
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zsimpey: 25mm?
 
S
what is plaster and what is OSB thick??
zsimpey
no focus on knowing the rules
 
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henrikrei
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Stickan56
injonil said:
A clarification to my answer to question 2:

Normally when installing OSB + gypsum, you don't care about where the studs are when you're mounting the gypsum; it's mostly attached just to the OSB boards.

With your construction, I would advise you NOT to do this but instead make sure that each screw goes into the stud, even those attaching the gypsum boards.
You should always screw the gypsum only into the studs so that the gypsum is not affected by OSB's movements. This is to avoid cracking the gypsum.
 
A
And then someone comes and screws up a mollys and then there's a hole in the plastic...

No, it hardly matters that much.

Stainless steel pins, however, can be recommended.
 
Hmm, I don't mind if they rust, the plastic still remains, or did I misunderstand you?
 
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