In connection with a renovation, we are going to put radon wallpaper on our interior walls. The walls are made of lightweight concrete with plaster on the outside. To obtain an even surface, plasterboard is mounted directly on the walls. When we initially discussed this, the craftsman said he would glue and screw. Now that I check, he has only used drywall screws that are driven directly into the substrate without plugs. He claims the screws hold so well that gluing is not necessary. The screw is 41 mm long. Is this really sufficient or must the boards be glued?
At some point, I have mounted plasterboard on a plastered wall with just screws, just as you describe. However, I mounted 13mm plasterboard and screwed with 55mm screws.
Some plaster is suitably hard to drive the screw directly into it. Sometimes there is a vassmatta and sparse paneling behind the plaster.
Some plaster is suitably hard to drive the screw directly into it. Sometimes there is a vassmatta and sparse paneling behind the plaster.
I don't have any radon levels available but know that the levels were below the limits when we bought it! Since we are completely renovating this part of the house (built in '63), we want to do what we can to further reduce the levels.
It's probably difficult to answer your question without knowing how well the screws hold in the aerated concrete. I've experienced instances where you can easily attach the board with only screws, and the screw head ends up at the perfect depth. Similarly, I've encountered situations where the threads of the screw shredded the aerated concrete so the screw couldn't pull the head down into the board.
You'll likely get the best answer by trying to gauge how well it holds yourself. If it holds well, I see no problems. If it's difficult to get a grip, he should probably have used tile adhesive, lip flexicol, or something similar. Keep in mind that when screwing into aerated concrete, you often need to press initially with the screwdriver to help the threads get a grip.
Risking going OT: Measure your radon levels before spending money on radon-proof wallpaper. In my opinion, there are too few independent studies (that is, not funded by the manufacturer) showing the cost-effectiveness of this solution.
You'll likely get the best answer by trying to gauge how well it holds yourself. If it holds well, I see no problems. If it's difficult to get a grip, he should probably have used tile adhesive, lip flexicol, or something similar. Keep in mind that when screwing into aerated concrete, you often need to press initially with the screwdriver to help the threads get a grip.
Risking going OT: Measure your radon levels before spending money on radon-proof wallpaper. In my opinion, there are too few independent studies (that is, not funded by the manufacturer) showing the cost-effectiveness of this solution.